I hear a rumour that there are 28 breweries in Cumbria. Certainly, I ran out of fingers AND toes listing the ones that come readily to mind! I tried to come up with a Top Ten from that fabulous long list, but I'm afraid it just wouldn't get shorter than fourteen. There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages to stay in near these breweries, it’d be crazy to miss out. So, in no particular order, enjoy!
1. Keswick Brewery
Thanks to the Keswick Brewery, Brewery Lane is once more alive with the sounds and smells of a proper craft brewery. Established in 2006, the Keswick Brewery is located on the site of the town's Victorian brew house, producing a number of popular beers all named 'Thirst – something' : Thirst Run (4.2% ABV), a golden pale ale; Thirst Fall (4.8% ABV), a chocolatey, malty bitter; Thirst Noel (6% ABV), a dark, rich, malty ale and Thirst Rescue (3.7% ABV ), a citrussy, golden bitter that makes a donation to the Mountain Rescue.
There are brewery tours all year round with a charitable donation from each tour divided equally between the Climate Contribution Fund and Red Squirrel Conservation. The Keswick Brewery's beers are available from the on-site shop and many pubs in northern Cumbria. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
2. The Strands Brewery
The Strands Brewery is based at the Strands Hotel public house in Nether Wasdale. They brew only for their own use, producing a number of beers which are nonetheless favourites with the CAMRA crew. The pub was runner-up in West Cumbria CAMRA's Pub of the Year competition in 2009.
Their most famous beer is 'Errrrrrm' (apologies if the incorrect number of 'r's are quoted!), a name developed as an apparent absence of creativity inspired a very unusual moniker! Errrrrrm (3.8% ABV) is a light, hoppy, amber bitter. Still lacking name inspiration when they brewed a delicious dark, smooth, porter-style ale, the pub's regulars submitted suggestions and T'Errrrrminator (5% ABV) was born.
3. Hardknott Brewery
Until recently, Hardknott's brewer was the landlord of the Woolpack Inn at Boot in Eskdale, where he brewed a few interesting numbers from a tiny set-up behind the pub. The Hardknott Brewery seceded from the pub earlier this year, setting up new premises in Millom. The Woolpack still stocks their brews, though (phew!). News is still thin on the ground since the relocation, but Millom seems to have been very good for their creativity. Try their Continuum (4.0% ABV) 'there is always time and space for good beer' and Dark Energy (4.9% ABV) 'without it, the cosmos would be inexplicable'. So there.
4. Coniston Brewery
Home to the very popular Bluebird Bitter, the Coniston Brewery is based at back of the Black Bull pub in Coniston. They've won a lot of awards, and reckon that Bluebird is the bestselling bottled beer at a certain regional supermarket! They supply a lot of pubs, including The Manor Arms at Broughton-in-Furness and the Kirkstile Inn at Loweswater.
Bluebird Bitter (3.6% ABV), named after Donald Campbell's ill-fated boat, is a very pale ale with a hint of orangeyness. Old Man Ale (4.2% ABV) is something a bit different; complex, chocolatey, fruity and bitter. At this time of year, perhaps we should try Winter Warmer Blacksmith's Ale (5.0% ABV), a rich, strong ale very reminiscent of Christmas pudding.
5. Jennings Brewery
Founded in Cockermouth in 1828, Jennings is by far the largest brewery in Cumbria. Aficionados were shocked when the brewery was taken over by Wolverhampton & Dudley in 2005, later migrating to Marston's. But the consensus is that Jennings remains Jennings, continuing to brew all the old favourites on site right here in Cockermouth. They also gained brownie points by collecting 10p in the pound for every pint sold in the aftermath of last year's cataclysmic floods, raising a tremendous £178k. They too were flooded, but brewing again by spring of this year.
Favourites are Jennings Bitter, Cumberland Ale, Cocker Hoop and Snecklifter with seasonal specials including Yan T'yan Tethera, Tom Fool, Cross Buttock, Crag Rat and World's Biggest Liar (Jennings sponsor the annual competition, based in the Santon Bridge Inn in Wasdale). Their beers are widely available in pubs and by the bottle.
There are brewery tours throughout the year, with sampling. There is a bar and tea room on site.
6. Stringers Beer
This micro-brewery in Ulverston on the west Cumbrian coast makes lovely beer, but that isn't all there is to get excited about. They're powered by Cumbrian nature – wind, wave, hydro and solar energy.
Popular brews include their Champion Stout (4% ABV), jet-black and, for a stout, very quaffable. Their West Coast Blond (4.4% ABV) is a flavoursome, floral ale made with blond hops on the west coast of Cumbria – no Californians here! They make a number of specials from time to time, including this summer's Sunbird, a curiously tangerine-y number; we look forward to their Christmas brew.
7. Barngates Brewery
Based at the Drunken Duck between Ambleside and Coniston, Barngates is lucky to have its own water supply, which adds its distinctive flavour to their brews. All their beers are named after various pub pets, so it's a good job for all of us that there have been quite a few!
Try Cracker Ale (3.9% ABV), a clean, smooth ale, named after the pub's favourite Jack Russell, Cracker. Aaah! Chester's Strong &Ugly (5.2% ABV) is popular with CAMRA and at the local beer festivals.
Red Bull Terrier(4.8% ABV), named after a dog called Brutus, is a proper winter ale; tangy, spicy and malty. It won three awards at the latest SIBA North Beer Competition.
8. Hesket Newmarket
If you're scrabbling around in your brain thinking, 'I've heard that name somewhere... something to do with Prince Charles', then you're spot-on. It doesn't really have any royal connections other than the fact that Prince Charles is very happy to support this community-owned co-operative, and often pops in when he's in the Lakes.
The brewery is based at the back of the Old Crown pub in Hesket Newmarket, near Caldbeck, and with one noble (and delicious) exception, names its beers after fells. Try Doris' 90th Birthday (4.3% ABV), a fruity number with butterscotch and bitter flavours; Catbells Pale Ale (5% ABV), an easy-drinking pale ale; Great Cockup Porter (3.0% ABV), dark and chocolatey, and Old Carrock Strong Ale (6.0% ABV), with a rich, Christmassy flavour.
Evening tours of the brewery, with a curry at the pub next door, are available all year round.
9. Ennerdale Brewery
Those feeling the loss of the old Whitehaven Brewing Company will be happy to hear that it has been re-born as the Ennerdale Brewery, based on a farm near Cleator. Using skills gained as a head brewer for Jennings, the Ennerdale Brewery has launched a number of beers all with 'Ennerdale' in the name: Darkest Ennerdale Best Bitter (4.2% ABV), Ennerdale Copper (3.8% ABV), Ennerdale Blonde Golden Ale (3.8% ABV), Ennerdale Breeze Mild (3.9% ABV) and Ennerdale Spice (4.2% ABV). It's early days yet for the Ennerdale Brewery – hence no website - but it's looking promising!
10. Yates Brewery
Following the buyout of Jennings, Yates's became the oldest independent brewery in Cumbria. Based at Westnewton in northern Cumbria, Yates' beers are widely stocked in pubs throughout the county and in bottles at Booths' supermarkets. They also have an on-line shop.
Try Yates' Bitter (3.7% ABV), a golden, complex bitter, or their Solway Sunset (4.3% ABV), a golden beer designed to bring to mind an evening at the west coast seaside town, Allonby. Their Christmas number, Yates' Best Cellar (4.6% ABV) became so popular that this old-fashioned, flavoursome beer is now available all year round in the bottle.
11. Bitter End Brewing Co.
Since Jennings was bought out, Bitter End takes great pride in calling itself the largest independent brewery in Cockermouth. They brew six regular beers and a number of specials throughout the year.
Try their Lakeland Bitter (3.8% ABV), a light copper bitter with a sweet, biscuity character, or Lakeland Amber (4.0% ABV), a pale, refreshing beer. Their Lakeland Honey Beer (5.0% ABV) is popular amongst beer-lovers, with a pale golden colour, floral hops and – you guessed it – a hint of honey flavour.
12. Cumbrian Legendary Ales
This Hawkshead-based brewery gained its name producing beers named after legendary Cumbrian characters – Wicked Jimmy, Buttermere Beauty, King Dunmail and Croglin Vampire – but since its takeover by Loweswater Brewery last year has concentrated on producing equally top quality, but more normally named, beers.
Try Loweswater Gold (4.3%), recently voted Best Gold Ale in Cumbria; Langdale (4.0% ABV), a bitter with strong orangey notes, or Melbreak (3.7% ABV), a quaffable bitter with lots of body. Rannerdale Robin (4.0% ABV), a rich, malty Christmas beer, is due out in December.
13. Ulverston Brewing Company
Fed up of brewing in their garage after Ulverston's only native brewery, Hartley's, had closed, the owners of Ulverston Brewing Co. finally launched earlier this year. Many of their beer's names pay tribute to Stan Laurel, who was born in the town.
Try Another Fine Mess (4.0% ABV), a pale, hoppy, citrussy beer, or Lonesome Pine, another pale beer with sweet, honey notes. Fra Diavolo (4.3% ABV) is a fiendish little number with a dark, rich flavour with the bitterness of chocolate and express. Yum!
The Brewery accepts visitors at most times, and can also arrange more formal tours.
14. Beckstones Brewery
Based at The Green between Millom and Broughton-in-Furness, Beckstones makes characterful beers that are worth hunting out at nearby pubs including the Punchbowl at The Green and the King's Head at Broughton.
Their Leat (3.6% ABV) – Cumbrian dialect for 'light' - is a thirst-quenching fruity number. Black Dog Freddy (3.9% ABV) – another beer named after a dog! – is a mild which won a couple of awards when it was launched in 2008. And we all know when it's Beer O'Clock (3.9%) – the perfect time for a pale golden beer with lots of hops.
Talking of which... I think it might indeed be Beer O'Clock. I'll have a pint, please!
There are several Lake District cottages near these fantastic breweries, why not come and visit one!
Saturday, 4 December 2010
Saturday, 20 November 2010
Lake District Pubs - Eskdale
Eskdale is one of the most beautiful valleys in the Lake District. Situated in the quieter side of the National Park, it has a peaceful tranquillity that makes it especially appealing to those who want to avoid the crowds. Amid all this tranquillity are several fantastic pubs serving great food and some fine ales. There are several Lake District cottages in the area which make a great base from which to explore Eskdale and what better way to finish the day of adventure off than to visit one of these fine establishments.
As you come to the main village, Eskdale Green from the south, you come to The King George IV. Under new management the pub has regained its status as one of the main focal points of the valley. It’s a welcoming pub with open fire, oak ceilings and slate floors. There is a sunny patio outside and pets are welcome both in and out.
The George IV has a self catering Apartment called the King George Apartment, which sleeps 8 and a luxury self contained caravan for 4/6 called The Cabin.
At the other end of Eskdale Green is The Bower House Inn. Here there is a lovely beer garden with a small wood and a stream at one end, plus a play area for children. The building itself has a lot of character being a 17th Century coaching inn. Nowadays it combines traditional Lake District hospitality with modern comforts such as wifi and regular events. The food is locally sourced and the ales are locally brewed.
Arriving in Eskdale over Hardknott Pass, the first pub you come to is The Woolpack Inn (and after a trip over the steepest pass in England, you will be glad of a pint or two to bring yourself back to reality). This pub was taken over by Harry & Paddington Berger in 2010 and they have worked wonders with it. The surrounding scenery is stunning, the ale is real stuff and the food is good and honest, made from local ingredients wherever possible. There is a large beer garden and your dog is more than welcome.
Heading down the valley you will then come to Boot which is a tiny hamlet with two pubs – The Boot Inn and the Brook House. Both are just a five minute walk down the road from the Ravenglass and Eskdale steam railway. The Brook House is classic. It is family owned and all the food is home made on site (and available all day). Their real ales include Cumbrian specials such as Hawkshead Bitter, Jennings, Barngates and Yates. And if ale isn’t enough to tempt you there, they also serve over 150 malt whiskeys.
The Boot Inn is further up the road and has a great children’s play area at the bottom of the beer garden. Inside there are darts and pool and the pub prides itself on being a lively pub with a good atmosphere.
Between them the Woolpack Inn, Brook House Inn and Boot Inn host a beer festival in June. With over 70 beers from nearly 70 breweries, each pub has a different choice. The 5-10 minute walk between the pubs can provide welcome fresh air, and a chance to plan the next pint!
Just outside of the valley, going towards Wasdale is The Santon Bridge Inn. Sunday lunches are a speciality here but the pub is great any time of the week with its open fire, real ale and country inn atmosphere. Wifi is available here, as well as a friendly smile from Humphrey who works behind the bar! If you are visiting in November, then don’t miss the World’s Biggest Liar Competition held at the Santon Bridge Inn. Staying at cottages in the Lake District is a great way to explore the lakes and all it has to offer.
As you come to the main village, Eskdale Green from the south, you come to The King George IV. Under new management the pub has regained its status as one of the main focal points of the valley. It’s a welcoming pub with open fire, oak ceilings and slate floors. There is a sunny patio outside and pets are welcome both in and out.
The George IV has a self catering Apartment called the King George Apartment, which sleeps 8 and a luxury self contained caravan for 4/6 called The Cabin.
At the other end of Eskdale Green is The Bower House Inn. Here there is a lovely beer garden with a small wood and a stream at one end, plus a play area for children. The building itself has a lot of character being a 17th Century coaching inn. Nowadays it combines traditional Lake District hospitality with modern comforts such as wifi and regular events. The food is locally sourced and the ales are locally brewed.
Arriving in Eskdale over Hardknott Pass, the first pub you come to is The Woolpack Inn (and after a trip over the steepest pass in England, you will be glad of a pint or two to bring yourself back to reality). This pub was taken over by Harry & Paddington Berger in 2010 and they have worked wonders with it. The surrounding scenery is stunning, the ale is real stuff and the food is good and honest, made from local ingredients wherever possible. There is a large beer garden and your dog is more than welcome.
Heading down the valley you will then come to Boot which is a tiny hamlet with two pubs – The Boot Inn and the Brook House. Both are just a five minute walk down the road from the Ravenglass and Eskdale steam railway. The Brook House is classic. It is family owned and all the food is home made on site (and available all day). Their real ales include Cumbrian specials such as Hawkshead Bitter, Jennings, Barngates and Yates. And if ale isn’t enough to tempt you there, they also serve over 150 malt whiskeys.
The Boot Inn is further up the road and has a great children’s play area at the bottom of the beer garden. Inside there are darts and pool and the pub prides itself on being a lively pub with a good atmosphere.
Between them the Woolpack Inn, Brook House Inn and Boot Inn host a beer festival in June. With over 70 beers from nearly 70 breweries, each pub has a different choice. The 5-10 minute walk between the pubs can provide welcome fresh air, and a chance to plan the next pint!
Just outside of the valley, going towards Wasdale is The Santon Bridge Inn. Sunday lunches are a speciality here but the pub is great any time of the week with its open fire, real ale and country inn atmosphere. Wifi is available here, as well as a friendly smile from Humphrey who works behind the bar! If you are visiting in November, then don’t miss the World’s Biggest Liar Competition held at the Santon Bridge Inn. Staying at cottages in the Lake District is a great way to explore the lakes and all it has to offer.
Wednesday, 17 November 2010
Animal Magic in the Lake District
The Lake District has an amazing variety of animals and birds. Creatures that you never, or rarely, see anywhere else in the country are readily spotted here, as well as farm animals in abundance. Wild animals, such as deer, fell ponies, stoats and red squirrels aren’t everywhere, but if you go to the right places, quietly enough and often enough, you will spot them. There are few sweeter sights than a family of white-flashed stoats running in their wiggling, spiralling way across the road, or red squirrels hopping from tree to tree with a tiny red squirrel kitten behind them.
The red squirrel is extinct in most parts of the UK, but they are still at home across much of Cumbria. You may spot red squirrels in any number of lightly wooded areas, but you are more likely to see them at the registered red squirrel parks – Whinfell Forest, near Penrith; Greystoke Forest, between Penrith and Keswick; Whinlatter Forest, west of Keswick; Thirlmere and Mallerstang, near Kirkby Stephen. All of these parks offer lovely woodland walks and great opportunities for a picnic.
There are several holiday cottages in the Lake District which make an ideal base to visit some of these great family day attractions.
Ospreys were once native to much of the UK, but they became extinct in England in 1840 and Scotland in 1916. In 1954 they reappeared in Scotland, and by the 1990s, the occasional pair visited the Lakes in the summer. In 2001, a breeding pair set up home in Dodd Wood, above Bassenthwaite Lake; you may well spot them swooping in the skies as you pass, or you can view the ospreys when they are in their nest from April to August at one of two viewing points in Dodd Wood. There is also an exhibition on the ospreys at the Whinlatter Forest Visitor Centre, and you can sneak a peek online at the webcam on the Osprey Watch website. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
You can see other birds of prey at the Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre, at Lowther, near Penrith. They have a large collection of hawks, eagles, falcons and owls and host regular flying demonstrations. There’s also a tea room on site.
In the central Lakes is the Predator Experience, near Windermere. Here, you can learn to handle falcons, golden eagles and owls, and take a guided woodland walk to see all types of hawk in their natural habitat. They have other predators, too - take your chance with snakes and tarantulas!
The World Owl Centre is home to the World Owl Trust. Based in the grounds of Muncaster Castle, on the west coast, this is the place to see forty different types of owl from sparrow-sized pigmy owls to enormous eagle owls. There is a ‘Meet the Birds’ talk, with feathered friends, every day at 2.30pm between 21st March and 31st October.
You can enjoy the company of a much stranger bird at Eden Ostrich World, at Langwathby, near Penrith. Here you can learn all about ostriches, visit them, and see eggs hatch (at the right time of year, of course). There is also a working farm on site, with rare breed pigs, cows and deer. There’s an enjoyable riverside walk and – wait for it - sheep milking. There’s also a tea room and a shop. Very popular with small children.
The Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre, near Cockermouth, is a mecca for all things sheep. Here you can see nineteen different breeds of sheep. They host sheep shearing and sheepdog competitions every year, and you can buy all sorts of sheep-related books and gifts.
Ewe Close Farm, near Wigton is a lowland hill farm and dairy specialising in rare breed pigs, cows and goats. Here you can see new animals being bottle-fed, and goat milking. You can take a pony ride, stroke a donkey, go out on a tractor, look for eggs and explore the woods.
Holme Open Farm, near Sedbergh, is thoroughly geared up for small children. They have sheep, pigs, goats, ducks, kittens and a pony, a picnic area and children’s play area with swings and slides.
These days, it’s not unusual to see a couple of alpaca in a field full of sheep. I have it on good authority that they are quite fond of sheep, and tend to try to stop them escaping their field… presumably sheep look like smaller, cuter and fluffier versions of alpaca in their eyes. You can check this out for yourself at the Alpaca Centre, at Stainton, near Ullswater.
The South Lakes Wild Animal Park, near Dalton-in-Furness, is closer in style to a conventional zoo, working towards the conservation of some of the rarest animals in the world. The 17-acre site is home to rare tigers, lemurs, wallabies, kangaroos, giraffes, lions, rhinos, penguins, birds of prey and waterfowl.
Trotter’s World of Animals, near Bassenthwaite, is a popular wildlife park with llamas, lemurs, wild cats, vultures, eagles, snakes, zebras, bison, red deer, wallabies, highland cattle, rabbits and guinea pigs. Trotter’s is a 25-acre site, with falconry displays, animal feeding, pony rides and tractor trips. There’s also a children’s adventure playground, picnic area, restaurant and shop.
The Lake District Coast Aquarium, at Maryport, is a great place to view all manner of sea creatures. There are native marine and freshwater fish, conger eels, small sharks, octopuses, crabs, cuttlefish, rays and starfish, as well as educational displays and an audio-visual centre.
Another great fishy place is the Lakes Aquarium, near Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere. Here, you can see the creatures that inhabit the lakes of the world, from Asia, the Americas and Africa and back home again to Windermere. There is a restaurant and gift shop.
Beyond all the parks and attractions, there’s no escaping Cumbria’s animal magic. Right now, the fields are chock-full with new lambs. Definitely the place to be for any animal lover.
Please note that some animal attractions, especially working farms, do not accept dogs and opening hours vary considerably throughout the year, so please check before you go. There are plenty of Lake District cottages which are within touching distance of these fantastic days out.
The red squirrel is extinct in most parts of the UK, but they are still at home across much of Cumbria. You may spot red squirrels in any number of lightly wooded areas, but you are more likely to see them at the registered red squirrel parks – Whinfell Forest, near Penrith; Greystoke Forest, between Penrith and Keswick; Whinlatter Forest, west of Keswick; Thirlmere and Mallerstang, near Kirkby Stephen. All of these parks offer lovely woodland walks and great opportunities for a picnic.
There are several holiday cottages in the Lake District which make an ideal base to visit some of these great family day attractions.
Ospreys were once native to much of the UK, but they became extinct in England in 1840 and Scotland in 1916. In 1954 they reappeared in Scotland, and by the 1990s, the occasional pair visited the Lakes in the summer. In 2001, a breeding pair set up home in Dodd Wood, above Bassenthwaite Lake; you may well spot them swooping in the skies as you pass, or you can view the ospreys when they are in their nest from April to August at one of two viewing points in Dodd Wood. There is also an exhibition on the ospreys at the Whinlatter Forest Visitor Centre, and you can sneak a peek online at the webcam on the Osprey Watch website. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
You can see other birds of prey at the Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre, at Lowther, near Penrith. They have a large collection of hawks, eagles, falcons and owls and host regular flying demonstrations. There’s also a tea room on site.
In the central Lakes is the Predator Experience, near Windermere. Here, you can learn to handle falcons, golden eagles and owls, and take a guided woodland walk to see all types of hawk in their natural habitat. They have other predators, too - take your chance with snakes and tarantulas!
The World Owl Centre is home to the World Owl Trust. Based in the grounds of Muncaster Castle, on the west coast, this is the place to see forty different types of owl from sparrow-sized pigmy owls to enormous eagle owls. There is a ‘Meet the Birds’ talk, with feathered friends, every day at 2.30pm between 21st March and 31st October.
You can enjoy the company of a much stranger bird at Eden Ostrich World, at Langwathby, near Penrith. Here you can learn all about ostriches, visit them, and see eggs hatch (at the right time of year, of course). There is also a working farm on site, with rare breed pigs, cows and deer. There’s an enjoyable riverside walk and – wait for it - sheep milking. There’s also a tea room and a shop. Very popular with small children.
The Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre, near Cockermouth, is a mecca for all things sheep. Here you can see nineteen different breeds of sheep. They host sheep shearing and sheepdog competitions every year, and you can buy all sorts of sheep-related books and gifts.
Ewe Close Farm, near Wigton is a lowland hill farm and dairy specialising in rare breed pigs, cows and goats. Here you can see new animals being bottle-fed, and goat milking. You can take a pony ride, stroke a donkey, go out on a tractor, look for eggs and explore the woods.
Holme Open Farm, near Sedbergh, is thoroughly geared up for small children. They have sheep, pigs, goats, ducks, kittens and a pony, a picnic area and children’s play area with swings and slides.
These days, it’s not unusual to see a couple of alpaca in a field full of sheep. I have it on good authority that they are quite fond of sheep, and tend to try to stop them escaping their field… presumably sheep look like smaller, cuter and fluffier versions of alpaca in their eyes. You can check this out for yourself at the Alpaca Centre, at Stainton, near Ullswater.
The South Lakes Wild Animal Park, near Dalton-in-Furness, is closer in style to a conventional zoo, working towards the conservation of some of the rarest animals in the world. The 17-acre site is home to rare tigers, lemurs, wallabies, kangaroos, giraffes, lions, rhinos, penguins, birds of prey and waterfowl.
Trotter’s World of Animals, near Bassenthwaite, is a popular wildlife park with llamas, lemurs, wild cats, vultures, eagles, snakes, zebras, bison, red deer, wallabies, highland cattle, rabbits and guinea pigs. Trotter’s is a 25-acre site, with falconry displays, animal feeding, pony rides and tractor trips. There’s also a children’s adventure playground, picnic area, restaurant and shop.
The Lake District Coast Aquarium, at Maryport, is a great place to view all manner of sea creatures. There are native marine and freshwater fish, conger eels, small sharks, octopuses, crabs, cuttlefish, rays and starfish, as well as educational displays and an audio-visual centre.
Another great fishy place is the Lakes Aquarium, near Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere. Here, you can see the creatures that inhabit the lakes of the world, from Asia, the Americas and Africa and back home again to Windermere. There is a restaurant and gift shop.
Beyond all the parks and attractions, there’s no escaping Cumbria’s animal magic. Right now, the fields are chock-full with new lambs. Definitely the place to be for any animal lover.
Please note that some animal attractions, especially working farms, do not accept dogs and opening hours vary considerably throughout the year, so please check before you go. There are plenty of Lake District cottages which are within touching distance of these fantastic days out.
Saturday, 13 November 2010
Muncaster Castle
Muncaster Castle is one of the biggest attractions in the South Western Lake District and is a great day out in a stunning location, which is fascinating for adults and offers loads to do for children. It’s within easy reach of several self catering lake district cottages which would make a great base for visiting the castle.
The Castle is in a wonderful setting with amazing views of Scafell and the Lakeland fells to the east and south and a stunning vista out to the west, where the river Esk meets the sea at Ravenglass.
The main estate is a 77 acre paradise of history and wonder with beautiful woodland gardens, fabulous views and amazing wildlife. Not only can you enjoy the 200 owls on display in the World Owl Centre, if you're lucky, you may even spot the odd deer or red squirrel that are visit the edges of the gardens.
Muncaster Castle is a site of tremendous historic interest. The original foundations of the building itself date back as far as 79AD - construction of the castle that you see today was started in 1258. As you can imagine with a castle in such an incredible position on the very edges of the country, it is steeped in history, with tales of kings and queens of murder and intrigue and ghostly presences everywhere.
The gardens and woodland walks are breathtaking, especially in spring and early summer. The bluebell woods are an absolutely essential for anyone staying at one of our holiday cottages in the Lake District in mid to late May and the Rhodedendrons follow on from that at the start of June and are equally stunning. The Himalayan Gardens feature many rhododendron specimens that are rarely seen in the West and are Europe's oldest leading collection.
There are 2 children’s play areas and several picnic areas around the grounds as well as large grass areas to run around and endless woodland and gardens to explore. The Max the Meadow Vole Maze is brilliant for over 5’s. It shows what the world looks like to a Meadow Vole, as you scurry around in a super-sized version of a Meadow habitat – it’s great fun and educational as well!
Muncaster Castle's World Owl Centre has one of the largest collections of these thrilling birds of prey in existence. The centre is home to a diverse range - from bizarre fish owls to diminutive pygmy owls which are not much bigger than a sparrow and has more than 40 different types of these magnificent Owls on display for you to wonder and enjoy.
The World Owl Centre is open every day and entry is included in your Gardens ticket.
Every afternoon (Easter to October half-term) a talk is given on the amazing owls and other birds of prey at the Centre, which is a great opportunity to see the birds at close quarters, watch them in flight (weather permitting) and take photographs.
You can also watch the wild herons feeding during "Heron Happy Hour".
At certain times of year you can also enjoy the spectacular ‘Darkest Muncaster’ experience; lights, music, sound and special effects transforms Muncaster's famous Gardens and Castle into an enchanting mystical experience after dark, guaranteed to amaze and entertain the entire family. This is an experience not to be missed and is usually included in the day ticket price! (valid on day of purchase)
There is also a cafe on site, which serves meals and infamous home-made cakes.
A bit more history:
In 1464 Sir John Pennington gave shelter to Henry VI, wandering after the Battle of Hexham. Many years later, in 1783, John, Lord Muncaster erected the tower known as Chapels to commemorate the place where the fugitive King was supposed to have been found by the shepherds. The legend tells how Holy King Harry on his departure left his drinking bowl behind in gratitude, saying that as long as it should remain quite whole and unbroken the Penningtons would live and thrive in the place. Today the bowl is still intact and is known as the Luck of Muncaster.
Muncaster Castle has a reputation for being one of the most haunted houses in England. Amongst the ghost stories are that of the ghost of Henry VI (who was sheltered at Muncaster after his defeat at the battle of Hexham) and the head carrying ghost of an apprentice carpenter who was decapitated whilst sleeping in the old stable block by jester Thomas Skelton (Tom The Fool) at the orders of Sir Ferdinand Pennington because of his love affair with his daughter Helwise. There were even tales that a lion shot by the last Lord Muncaster in Kenya, and whose skull is kept in the castle, was sometimes heard prowling (& gently growling) around at nightfall.
A bit more information about the Gardens:
The terrace, with its view of Eskdale, is the finest man-made garden structure at Muncaster. As well as extending and remodelling the Castle in the early 1780's, the first Lord Muncaster carried out huge improvements to the gardens. He planted hundreds of thousands of trees, opened up many new walks through the gardens and built the grand entrance gates and laid out the half mile long terrace with its summer houses which were renovated in 1890 and 1999.
The alternating yew pillars and box hedge planted in the 19th Century provide protection from the chill winds which can blow from the high fells. This allows many plants to flourish here including some Mediterranean species which elsewhere in the UK would require a glass house in winter. There is a fine collection of magnolias, camellias, and maples, as well as hydrangeas and a large collection of unusual trees.
The terrace links to Church Wood, home to many winter flowering rhododendrons and to a colourful collection of Japanese maples which are at their best in summer.
The Sino Himalayan Gardens are a particularly fabulous part of the grounds and are a wonderful place to soak everything in in peace and tranquillity. Standing at almost sea level in the Himalayan gardens of Muncaster is startlingly similar to being 3350 metres (11,000ft) high in the Himalayan foothills. Here plants from all over the world nestle in the wild splendour of over 70 acres of gardens with the romantic backdrop of the glorious Lakeland Fells.
Location
If you are staying in one of several cottages in the lake district near the Eskdale and Wasdale area, then Muncaster Castle really couldn't be more handy - it is located in the heart of the Western Lake District and, uniquely, is in the only coastal village of the Lake District National Park, Ravenglass.
The castle is well signposted on the A595, just to the east of Ravenglass. The postcode is CA18 1RD.
Parking is free and for visitors with disability/mobility concerns, there is a car park in the heart of the estate which can be accessed via Church Lane. This is approximately 1/2 mile around the corner from the main car park (heading south).
Walking from Ravenglass to Muncaster: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Muncaster Castle along Muncaster Fell from any number of Lake District cottages in Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station and then hike out to Muncaster and have a leisurely trip back on the Ravenglass and Eskdale miniature steam railway.
Reception at the castle is open 8.30am - 6pm Monday to Friday, 9am - 5pm Saturday and Sunday and the information office number is: 01229 717 614.
The Castle is in a wonderful setting with amazing views of Scafell and the Lakeland fells to the east and south and a stunning vista out to the west, where the river Esk meets the sea at Ravenglass.
The main estate is a 77 acre paradise of history and wonder with beautiful woodland gardens, fabulous views and amazing wildlife. Not only can you enjoy the 200 owls on display in the World Owl Centre, if you're lucky, you may even spot the odd deer or red squirrel that are visit the edges of the gardens.
Muncaster Castle is a site of tremendous historic interest. The original foundations of the building itself date back as far as 79AD - construction of the castle that you see today was started in 1258. As you can imagine with a castle in such an incredible position on the very edges of the country, it is steeped in history, with tales of kings and queens of murder and intrigue and ghostly presences everywhere.
The gardens and woodland walks are breathtaking, especially in spring and early summer. The bluebell woods are an absolutely essential for anyone staying at one of our holiday cottages in the Lake District in mid to late May and the Rhodedendrons follow on from that at the start of June and are equally stunning. The Himalayan Gardens feature many rhododendron specimens that are rarely seen in the West and are Europe's oldest leading collection.
There are 2 children’s play areas and several picnic areas around the grounds as well as large grass areas to run around and endless woodland and gardens to explore. The Max the Meadow Vole Maze is brilliant for over 5’s. It shows what the world looks like to a Meadow Vole, as you scurry around in a super-sized version of a Meadow habitat – it’s great fun and educational as well!
Muncaster Castle's World Owl Centre has one of the largest collections of these thrilling birds of prey in existence. The centre is home to a diverse range - from bizarre fish owls to diminutive pygmy owls which are not much bigger than a sparrow and has more than 40 different types of these magnificent Owls on display for you to wonder and enjoy.
The World Owl Centre is open every day and entry is included in your Gardens ticket.
Every afternoon (Easter to October half-term) a talk is given on the amazing owls and other birds of prey at the Centre, which is a great opportunity to see the birds at close quarters, watch them in flight (weather permitting) and take photographs.
You can also watch the wild herons feeding during "Heron Happy Hour".
At certain times of year you can also enjoy the spectacular ‘Darkest Muncaster’ experience; lights, music, sound and special effects transforms Muncaster's famous Gardens and Castle into an enchanting mystical experience after dark, guaranteed to amaze and entertain the entire family. This is an experience not to be missed and is usually included in the day ticket price! (valid on day of purchase)
There is also a cafe on site, which serves meals and infamous home-made cakes.
A bit more history:
In 1464 Sir John Pennington gave shelter to Henry VI, wandering after the Battle of Hexham. Many years later, in 1783, John, Lord Muncaster erected the tower known as Chapels to commemorate the place where the fugitive King was supposed to have been found by the shepherds. The legend tells how Holy King Harry on his departure left his drinking bowl behind in gratitude, saying that as long as it should remain quite whole and unbroken the Penningtons would live and thrive in the place. Today the bowl is still intact and is known as the Luck of Muncaster.
Muncaster Castle has a reputation for being one of the most haunted houses in England. Amongst the ghost stories are that of the ghost of Henry VI (who was sheltered at Muncaster after his defeat at the battle of Hexham) and the head carrying ghost of an apprentice carpenter who was decapitated whilst sleeping in the old stable block by jester Thomas Skelton (Tom The Fool) at the orders of Sir Ferdinand Pennington because of his love affair with his daughter Helwise. There were even tales that a lion shot by the last Lord Muncaster in Kenya, and whose skull is kept in the castle, was sometimes heard prowling (& gently growling) around at nightfall.
A bit more information about the Gardens:
The terrace, with its view of Eskdale, is the finest man-made garden structure at Muncaster. As well as extending and remodelling the Castle in the early 1780's, the first Lord Muncaster carried out huge improvements to the gardens. He planted hundreds of thousands of trees, opened up many new walks through the gardens and built the grand entrance gates and laid out the half mile long terrace with its summer houses which were renovated in 1890 and 1999.
The alternating yew pillars and box hedge planted in the 19th Century provide protection from the chill winds which can blow from the high fells. This allows many plants to flourish here including some Mediterranean species which elsewhere in the UK would require a glass house in winter. There is a fine collection of magnolias, camellias, and maples, as well as hydrangeas and a large collection of unusual trees.
The terrace links to Church Wood, home to many winter flowering rhododendrons and to a colourful collection of Japanese maples which are at their best in summer.
The Sino Himalayan Gardens are a particularly fabulous part of the grounds and are a wonderful place to soak everything in in peace and tranquillity. Standing at almost sea level in the Himalayan gardens of Muncaster is startlingly similar to being 3350 metres (11,000ft) high in the Himalayan foothills. Here plants from all over the world nestle in the wild splendour of over 70 acres of gardens with the romantic backdrop of the glorious Lakeland Fells.
Location
If you are staying in one of several cottages in the lake district near the Eskdale and Wasdale area, then Muncaster Castle really couldn't be more handy - it is located in the heart of the Western Lake District and, uniquely, is in the only coastal village of the Lake District National Park, Ravenglass.
The castle is well signposted on the A595, just to the east of Ravenglass. The postcode is CA18 1RD.
Parking is free and for visitors with disability/mobility concerns, there is a car park in the heart of the estate which can be accessed via Church Lane. This is approximately 1/2 mile around the corner from the main car park (heading south).
Walking from Ravenglass to Muncaster: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Muncaster Castle along Muncaster Fell from any number of Lake District cottages in Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station and then hike out to Muncaster and have a leisurely trip back on the Ravenglass and Eskdale miniature steam railway.
Reception at the castle is open 8.30am - 6pm Monday to Friday, 9am - 5pm Saturday and Sunday and the information office number is: 01229 717 614.
Walk around St John's in the Vale
This is a circular walk of 2.5 - 3 hours. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the Lake District from which this walk is accessible. The walk starts at St John’s in the Vale Church where you can park (ignore the sign that says ‘unsuitable for cars’ – it is bad after the church). Walk past the Diocesan Youth Centre and immediately turn left and follow the trod up to the kissing gate.
The next section is a steep climb up grass to the top. There are two or three paths up but I favour the one with the steps in the grass – much easier!
Don’t miss the top. The path goes on across the saddle and there is a cluster of rocks on your left. Climb up here and you will be rewarded with a wonderful panorama of all the major peaks and also Tuffet tarn nestling in a fold of the hills behind you with Blencathra looming in the background and the central massif of Skiddaw with Bassenthwaite Lake in the far distance.
Turn round and you will see Thirlmere and this is the direction you are heading for with the Hellvelyn range on your left.
The path descends and turns right and it continues as a gentle stroll among undulating hummocks until you come to a marshy area. Keep well over to the right before attempting to cross it. Don’t use the first set of stones across but follow the path around to the left (keeping the wall on your left) until you descend to a ladder stile.
Once over, take the right hand path. Ahead is a beautiful view of the manmade reservoir, Thirlmere.
Climb over the next small stile and continue along the ridge among the clumps of heather towards the scars of Hellvelyn.
Below is the tranquil vale of St John’s with its traditional Lake District cottages and carpets of fields with grazing sheep and cows. There is a little bit of a tricky descent and then up again through a gap in the wall. Then follows a lovely descent through aromatic pine/fir trees with the forbidding Castle Crag loved by the Lake District's climbers in front of you.
The path twists and turns almost to the road but at the big oak tree on your left turn left and you will be on the path which will take you eventually along the river up St John’s in the Vale back to the church.
The path descends towards the river. After about ¾ mile you will find a warm welcome at Low Bridge End farm selling homemade cakes and soft drinks – a welcome pitstop!
Dogs on leads though – a handsome turkey roams freely. The path then meanders beside the stone wall with the massif of Blencathra and Threlkeld nestling below always in front of you.
A slight incline brings you up to the road leading to the church where you turn left back to your car. The church has been there’re at least since 1554 and was once part of an important route from Matterdale to Wanthwaite and conveniently placed for people both sides of the fell.
There is a good Lake District pub in Threlkeld, the Horse and Farrier, 5 minutes drive away.
There are several Lake District cottages from where you can enjoy fantastic Lakeland walks throughout the year, this walk is just one of them.
The next section is a steep climb up grass to the top. There are two or three paths up but I favour the one with the steps in the grass – much easier!
Don’t miss the top. The path goes on across the saddle and there is a cluster of rocks on your left. Climb up here and you will be rewarded with a wonderful panorama of all the major peaks and also Tuffet tarn nestling in a fold of the hills behind you with Blencathra looming in the background and the central massif of Skiddaw with Bassenthwaite Lake in the far distance.
Turn round and you will see Thirlmere and this is the direction you are heading for with the Hellvelyn range on your left.
The path descends and turns right and it continues as a gentle stroll among undulating hummocks until you come to a marshy area. Keep well over to the right before attempting to cross it. Don’t use the first set of stones across but follow the path around to the left (keeping the wall on your left) until you descend to a ladder stile.
Once over, take the right hand path. Ahead is a beautiful view of the manmade reservoir, Thirlmere.
Climb over the next small stile and continue along the ridge among the clumps of heather towards the scars of Hellvelyn.
Below is the tranquil vale of St John’s with its traditional Lake District cottages and carpets of fields with grazing sheep and cows. There is a little bit of a tricky descent and then up again through a gap in the wall. Then follows a lovely descent through aromatic pine/fir trees with the forbidding Castle Crag loved by the Lake District's climbers in front of you.
The path twists and turns almost to the road but at the big oak tree on your left turn left and you will be on the path which will take you eventually along the river up St John’s in the Vale back to the church.
The path descends towards the river. After about ¾ mile you will find a warm welcome at Low Bridge End farm selling homemade cakes and soft drinks – a welcome pitstop!
Dogs on leads though – a handsome turkey roams freely. The path then meanders beside the stone wall with the massif of Blencathra and Threlkeld nestling below always in front of you.
A slight incline brings you up to the road leading to the church where you turn left back to your car. The church has been there’re at least since 1554 and was once part of an important route from Matterdale to Wanthwaite and conveniently placed for people both sides of the fell.
There is a good Lake District pub in Threlkeld, the Horse and Farrier, 5 minutes drive away.
There are several Lake District cottages from where you can enjoy fantastic Lakeland walks throughout the year, this walk is just one of them.
Friday, 12 November 2010
Getting away from the crowds in the Lake District
The Lake District is, in my biased opinion, undoubtedly the most beautiful place in Britain. Soaring peaks, endless greenery, mirror-smooth lakes, wonderful wildlife, scary screes, romantic poetry, ancient history, country pubs and half a million sheep. There's also no question that lots of people agree, and many of them can be spotted hunting for parking spaces in Windermere on a Saturday afternoon throughout the year, especially in summer.
Those in the know head for the quieter, western parts of the Lakes, where the scenery often tops the better-known areas and you've every chance of having a mountain-top or lakeside picnic spot all to yourself. The curious thing is that the less-populated valleys needn't have fewer facilities, as the pub-per-person ratio remains curiously high. This, I’d like to think, tells you plenty about the locals' congenial disposition, not to mention their love of real ale and hearty local food. There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages available for everyone as well.
The other thing the western valleys have in common is better weather. The Lake District is well-known for its showers – the lakes have to come from somewhere – but the western areas have fewer heavy downpours and are very often warmer than the rest of the national park. It's not uncommon in late spring to see snow on distant fells, whilst you're shedding layers on the valley floor below.
So – have I convinced you to head over to the Duddon Valley, Ennerdale, Wasdale and Eskdale?
The Duddon Valley is in the far south-west of the county, accessible from Broughton-in-Furness on the coast or by following Wordsworth's steps from Wrynose Pass to Cockley Beck at the head of the valley. Wordsworth wrote no less than 34 sonnets about the Duddon Valley.
'Still glides the Stream, and shall for ever glide,' he said, contemplating the stately pace of the River Duddon.
Local people recall with fondness childhood summers spent jumping off Ulpha Bridge into the River Duddon, whilst their parents picnicked on the river bank. There are lots of footpaths throughout the valley, but those near the valley foot are very gentle, level and still beautiful; just right for families and people who walk for relaxation rather than exercise.
Further into the Duddon Valley, you can walk to Wallowbarrow Crag, where the river rushes through a gorge, or up to Birk's Bridge, stretched dramatically over a 20-foot chasm. Seathwaite Tarn is a great place to relax with little chance of running into fellow walkers. The views over the woods, river and fells are spectacular, and there's a good chance of spotting red squirrels and buzzards.
You may not have heard of Ennerdale, and that's because the small number of roads make it the least-visited part of the Lake District. It's our last great sanctuary for committed climbers, scramblers, riders and walkers; there's just one small village, and the road stops at Bowness Knott at the lake's edge.
Ennerdale Water is the only lake not to have a tarmaced road running along its shores, but the valley does have 30 miles of public rights of way including 14 miles of exquisite forest paths. Here, walkers, riders and mountain bike enthusiasts can park up at Bowness Knott, put their sandwiches in their backpacks, and head out into miles of wild lakes scenery.
Climbers will know of Ennerdale for one reason: Pillar Rock. The rugged north face of Pillar mountain has been a proving-ground for climbers for a hundred years, with super climbs at most grades right up to the plainly-named, 'Hard Severe'. Despite its fame, the remote location and reputation of Pillar means that it's never crowded, and you can often enjoy your battle with nature in perfect solitude.
Wasdale is a place of extremes. The valley opens gently at Nether Wasdale, with views of open farmland and forestry plantations. A mile and a half further on, the scenery changes dramatically as Wastwater, the country's deepest lake, and the high fells that surround it, come into view. Mountainsides seem to plunge straight into the lake; bare screes contrasting with the calm, steely waters. At the head of the lake is Great Gable and Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain.
Wasdale claims another record with a candidate for England's smallest church, at the hamlet of Wasdale Head. St. Olaf's is a tiny place just big enough for the small local population, set picturesquely in an old yew grove, with ancient beams said to have come from Viking ships.
The Wasdale Head Inn is the place to set off on some of the most strenuous walks in the country, up into the Scafells and beyond. This is very much the place to be if you need to get-away-from-it-all. If mobile phones and reality TV have been driving you crazy, come right here; there's very little reception for either.
Eskdale is a truly beautiful valley, with a varied terrain which suits the relaxation-seeker and committed adventurer alike. In fact, if you really want to see spectacular scenery the very easy way, hop on the steam train at the foot of the valley in Ravenglass, and let it chauffeur you through seven miles of woodland, gentle fields and river views, set against the backdrop of the highest mountains in the country.
There are lots of footpaths in the valley, many of them low level riverside walks. You can paddle in the river, cross stepping stones and picnic at leisure, with few other visitors around. The more adventurous will head up the valley, perhaps to the steep, wooded ravine to the 60-foot falls at Dalegarth Force, or take the path east of the Doctor Bridge to the extreme heights of the Roman fort at Hardknott Pass.
Eskdale's most stunning and strenous activity is the 'Woolpack round', a 16-mile walk topping the Scafells. This day-long trek is not for the fainthearted, but rewards the fit with spectacular views of all the best that the Lake District has to offer, with the highest and craggiest peaks, distant glittering lakes and green valleys heading to the sea. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district in these areas too. It’d be crazy not to try them. Just follow the link.
Now, isn't that better than fighting for parking spaces?
Those in the know head for the quieter, western parts of the Lakes, where the scenery often tops the better-known areas and you've every chance of having a mountain-top or lakeside picnic spot all to yourself. The curious thing is that the less-populated valleys needn't have fewer facilities, as the pub-per-person ratio remains curiously high. This, I’d like to think, tells you plenty about the locals' congenial disposition, not to mention their love of real ale and hearty local food. There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages available for everyone as well.
The other thing the western valleys have in common is better weather. The Lake District is well-known for its showers – the lakes have to come from somewhere – but the western areas have fewer heavy downpours and are very often warmer than the rest of the national park. It's not uncommon in late spring to see snow on distant fells, whilst you're shedding layers on the valley floor below.
So – have I convinced you to head over to the Duddon Valley, Ennerdale, Wasdale and Eskdale?
The Duddon Valley is in the far south-west of the county, accessible from Broughton-in-Furness on the coast or by following Wordsworth's steps from Wrynose Pass to Cockley Beck at the head of the valley. Wordsworth wrote no less than 34 sonnets about the Duddon Valley.
'Still glides the Stream, and shall for ever glide,' he said, contemplating the stately pace of the River Duddon.
Local people recall with fondness childhood summers spent jumping off Ulpha Bridge into the River Duddon, whilst their parents picnicked on the river bank. There are lots of footpaths throughout the valley, but those near the valley foot are very gentle, level and still beautiful; just right for families and people who walk for relaxation rather than exercise.
Further into the Duddon Valley, you can walk to Wallowbarrow Crag, where the river rushes through a gorge, or up to Birk's Bridge, stretched dramatically over a 20-foot chasm. Seathwaite Tarn is a great place to relax with little chance of running into fellow walkers. The views over the woods, river and fells are spectacular, and there's a good chance of spotting red squirrels and buzzards.
You may not have heard of Ennerdale, and that's because the small number of roads make it the least-visited part of the Lake District. It's our last great sanctuary for committed climbers, scramblers, riders and walkers; there's just one small village, and the road stops at Bowness Knott at the lake's edge.
Ennerdale Water is the only lake not to have a tarmaced road running along its shores, but the valley does have 30 miles of public rights of way including 14 miles of exquisite forest paths. Here, walkers, riders and mountain bike enthusiasts can park up at Bowness Knott, put their sandwiches in their backpacks, and head out into miles of wild lakes scenery.
Climbers will know of Ennerdale for one reason: Pillar Rock. The rugged north face of Pillar mountain has been a proving-ground for climbers for a hundred years, with super climbs at most grades right up to the plainly-named, 'Hard Severe'. Despite its fame, the remote location and reputation of Pillar means that it's never crowded, and you can often enjoy your battle with nature in perfect solitude.
Wasdale is a place of extremes. The valley opens gently at Nether Wasdale, with views of open farmland and forestry plantations. A mile and a half further on, the scenery changes dramatically as Wastwater, the country's deepest lake, and the high fells that surround it, come into view. Mountainsides seem to plunge straight into the lake; bare screes contrasting with the calm, steely waters. At the head of the lake is Great Gable and Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain.
Wasdale claims another record with a candidate for England's smallest church, at the hamlet of Wasdale Head. St. Olaf's is a tiny place just big enough for the small local population, set picturesquely in an old yew grove, with ancient beams said to have come from Viking ships.
The Wasdale Head Inn is the place to set off on some of the most strenuous walks in the country, up into the Scafells and beyond. This is very much the place to be if you need to get-away-from-it-all. If mobile phones and reality TV have been driving you crazy, come right here; there's very little reception for either.
Eskdale is a truly beautiful valley, with a varied terrain which suits the relaxation-seeker and committed adventurer alike. In fact, if you really want to see spectacular scenery the very easy way, hop on the steam train at the foot of the valley in Ravenglass, and let it chauffeur you through seven miles of woodland, gentle fields and river views, set against the backdrop of the highest mountains in the country.
There are lots of footpaths in the valley, many of them low level riverside walks. You can paddle in the river, cross stepping stones and picnic at leisure, with few other visitors around. The more adventurous will head up the valley, perhaps to the steep, wooded ravine to the 60-foot falls at Dalegarth Force, or take the path east of the Doctor Bridge to the extreme heights of the Roman fort at Hardknott Pass.
Eskdale's most stunning and strenous activity is the 'Woolpack round', a 16-mile walk topping the Scafells. This day-long trek is not for the fainthearted, but rewards the fit with spectacular views of all the best that the Lake District has to offer, with the highest and craggiest peaks, distant glittering lakes and green valleys heading to the sea. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district in these areas too. It’d be crazy not to try them. Just follow the link.
Now, isn't that better than fighting for parking spaces?
Christmas Capers in the Lake District
Santa on a steam train, a squirrel on a boat, an illuminated castle, lunch in a medieval hall and a party with Lady Gaga. The Lakes has its usual astonishing variety of Christmas entertainment, and the above is (nearly) all true!
According to Rheged, Santa has several holiday cottages in the lake district, which is just as well as he plans on spending quite a lot of time there before he returns to the North Pole to pack for the big trip.
His first appearance in Cumbria is doubtless a PR exercise to prove that he does not have a belly like a bowlful of jelly – he and many doppelgangers will be taking part in Barrow-in-Furness's annual Santa Dash and Reindeer Run on 20th November. Here, adults who register with the charity, Cancer Care, can borrow a Santa suit, and kids can borrow antlers and Rudolphian noses, before walking/running/dashing along the one-and-a-half mile route through the town.
Having proved his fitness, Santa then arrives at his Lake District cottages in Rheged by husky-drawn sleigh (I guess the reindeer need a break after the Barrow Reindeer Run) on 21st November (I'll be keeping my eyes skywards in the hope of spotting the fly-past!). He'll switch on Rheged's Christmas lights and be on standard grotto duty from November 27th – 28th.
On 4th December, Santa hops back to the west coast to switch on the Christmas lights at Grange-over-Sands – no doubt he chose this one because they have a spectacular, allegedly 100ft-tall, Christmas tree!
On 5th December, Santa will be in his grotto at Keswick's Traditional Christmas Fayre. There's street entertainment, decorations throughout the town centre and lots of market stalls all staffed by charities and local community groups.
It's a little known fact that Santa is quite keen on boats. He will be taking four cruises a day on the Keswick Launch on the three weekends before Christmas, 6th/7th, 13th/14th and 20th/21st. Children will be given presents and adults get mince pies – yum. He'll probably stay at one of his Keswick cottages while he's there!
On 7th – 9th December, Santa will be cruising with his friend, the 6ft-tall talking red squirrel, Sammy. Santa and Sammy will be handing out fab pressies to children and mulled wine and minced pies for the grown ups on Ullswater Steamers.
On 11th/12th and 18th/19th December, Santa will be indulging his little-suspected love of steam trains. He'll be hosting train trips on the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway from the coastal village of Ravenglass all the way to Boot at the top of the Eskdale valley.
Santa also loves a film, so he'll be hosting supper and film events for kids at Rheged in the week before Christmas.
• 19th Dec: Santa Supper plus Shrek 4
• 20th Dec: Santa Supper plus Toy Story 3
• 23rd Dec: Santa Supper plus A Christmas Carol
Santa will also be at his grotto in Whitehaven's The Beacon on 22nd December, with gifts for 3-12yr olds.
Muncaster Castle is one of our favourite places in this part of the world. This medieval castle-cum-stately home puts on a great show at Christmas, with elaborate Victorian decorations, illuminations and special effects in the garden, with tall tales told by staff in 19th-century costume. Or at least, we think it's costume – the castle is well known for its ghosts!
• Christmas at the Castle – weekends from November 20th until Christmas (excluding 25th/26th November)
• Victorian Christmas Tours – Sundays in December (excl. 26th) plus 27th – 30th.
• Christmas lunch plus Victorian Christmas Tour – 23rd November, 3rd December and 10th December only.
There are a number of Christmas light switch-on events in our area. Keswick's is a favourite, as it combines with the Keswick Food Fayre. There's no news yet on who's going to switch on the lights, but last year, it was Prince Charles! The event takes place on November 19th.
Cockermouth's Christmas lights switch-on takes place on 21st November. Always good fun, the event includes street entertainment and market stalls.
There's been a touch of excitement amongst teens in the Whitehaven area, as their Christmas lights are to be switched on by Kimberley Dayle. Who she? I hear you say... well, she's a Lady Gaga tribute act, returned from her US tour. She'll be doing a 15-minute set before switching on the lights, then trekking over to Whitehaven's Civic Hall for a concert. There will also be a local radio road show in the town from lunchtime. The event takes place on 21st November.
If your musical tastes are – ahem – more eclectic, you might prefer to go to Keswick's Theatre by the Lake on 5th December. They are hosting a Viennese Strauss Christmas Gala concert, with Strauss, Christmas songs and humorous seasonal readings. This sells out very quickly, so book soon!
The Theatre by the Lake is also offering 'Melody & Mirth' on 19th December, in conjunction with the local Rotary Club. Opera singers, Graeme Danby and Valerie Reid star alongside a local band.
Also not to be missed is the Theatre by the Lake's version of the childhood classic,' Tom's Midnight Garden', from 27th November to 15th January.
A couple of other Christmassy concerts that sound great include the Christmas Concert at All Saints' Church, Cockermouth, on 4th December, where you can enjoy Bach, carols and seasonal refreshments.
There's also a terrific concert planned by Ulverston Music Festivals at Eccle Rigg on 16th December, with Schumann's Liederkreis song cycle for the first half and Christmas songs in the second, with the baritone Jeremy Huw Williams.
Whitehaven Civic Centre will be hosting the annual Whitehaven Theatre Group panto, 'Snow White', from 7th – 12th December. Pantomimes are few and far between in Cumbria, so book early!
There are a number of Christmas Fairs planned:
• 19th November: Keswick Food Fayre
• 21st November: Armathwaite Hall's Christmas Fair
• 27th – 28th November: Ulverston Dickensian Fair
• 3rd December: Egremont Farmers' Market
• 4th December: Cockermouth Christmas Farmers' Market
• 5th December: Keswick Traditional Christmas Fayre
• 12th December: Rheged Christmas Food & Gift Fair
• 17th December: Egremont Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Rheged Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Ulverston Christmas Farmers' Market
If fine dining's more your thing, there are a number of upmarket eateries in the area, including Armathwaite Hall, which has delicious four-course lunches throughout December, and a serious Christmas Eve dinner with pre-dinner cocktails and pre-dinner entertainment. On Boxing Day, there's the same dinner, but with a casino afterwards!
You can combine a lovely Christmas lunch with a lake cruise on Ullswater Steamers' Spirit of Christmas cruises on December 7th and 9th. The lunch is hosted by the nearby stately home, Dalemain, in their Medieval Hall.
After all this munching, you might need a good walk. Whinlatter Forest Park is a good place to go at this time of year, partly because of the lovely Christmassy pine forests, but also because the trails are waymarked, of various lengths, and there is little risk of getting stranded in cold weather. They have trails for all levels of experience including children, an orienteering course, mountain bike trails (with bike hire), and, weather-permitting, the Go Ape! high-wire course. There's a good cafe, which usually does seasonal fare and a few days with the man in red himself (check the website for dates). You can also buy any size or shape of Christmas tree you like!
So, what'll it be? Dinner, Santa, shopping, walking, music or theatre? Go on – try them all! There are plenty of self catering Lake District cottages available across Cumbria which would make an ideal base for visiting most of these events. Just follow the link.
According to Rheged, Santa has several holiday cottages in the lake district, which is just as well as he plans on spending quite a lot of time there before he returns to the North Pole to pack for the big trip.
His first appearance in Cumbria is doubtless a PR exercise to prove that he does not have a belly like a bowlful of jelly – he and many doppelgangers will be taking part in Barrow-in-Furness's annual Santa Dash and Reindeer Run on 20th November. Here, adults who register with the charity, Cancer Care, can borrow a Santa suit, and kids can borrow antlers and Rudolphian noses, before walking/running/dashing along the one-and-a-half mile route through the town.
Having proved his fitness, Santa then arrives at his Lake District cottages in Rheged by husky-drawn sleigh (I guess the reindeer need a break after the Barrow Reindeer Run) on 21st November (I'll be keeping my eyes skywards in the hope of spotting the fly-past!). He'll switch on Rheged's Christmas lights and be on standard grotto duty from November 27th – 28th.
On 4th December, Santa hops back to the west coast to switch on the Christmas lights at Grange-over-Sands – no doubt he chose this one because they have a spectacular, allegedly 100ft-tall, Christmas tree!
On 5th December, Santa will be in his grotto at Keswick's Traditional Christmas Fayre. There's street entertainment, decorations throughout the town centre and lots of market stalls all staffed by charities and local community groups.
It's a little known fact that Santa is quite keen on boats. He will be taking four cruises a day on the Keswick Launch on the three weekends before Christmas, 6th/7th, 13th/14th and 20th/21st. Children will be given presents and adults get mince pies – yum. He'll probably stay at one of his Keswick cottages while he's there!
On 7th – 9th December, Santa will be cruising with his friend, the 6ft-tall talking red squirrel, Sammy. Santa and Sammy will be handing out fab pressies to children and mulled wine and minced pies for the grown ups on Ullswater Steamers.
On 11th/12th and 18th/19th December, Santa will be indulging his little-suspected love of steam trains. He'll be hosting train trips on the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway from the coastal village of Ravenglass all the way to Boot at the top of the Eskdale valley.
Santa also loves a film, so he'll be hosting supper and film events for kids at Rheged in the week before Christmas.
• 19th Dec: Santa Supper plus Shrek 4
• 20th Dec: Santa Supper plus Toy Story 3
• 23rd Dec: Santa Supper plus A Christmas Carol
Santa will also be at his grotto in Whitehaven's The Beacon on 22nd December, with gifts for 3-12yr olds.
Muncaster Castle is one of our favourite places in this part of the world. This medieval castle-cum-stately home puts on a great show at Christmas, with elaborate Victorian decorations, illuminations and special effects in the garden, with tall tales told by staff in 19th-century costume. Or at least, we think it's costume – the castle is well known for its ghosts!
• Christmas at the Castle – weekends from November 20th until Christmas (excluding 25th/26th November)
• Victorian Christmas Tours – Sundays in December (excl. 26th) plus 27th – 30th.
• Christmas lunch plus Victorian Christmas Tour – 23rd November, 3rd December and 10th December only.
There are a number of Christmas light switch-on events in our area. Keswick's is a favourite, as it combines with the Keswick Food Fayre. There's no news yet on who's going to switch on the lights, but last year, it was Prince Charles! The event takes place on November 19th.
Cockermouth's Christmas lights switch-on takes place on 21st November. Always good fun, the event includes street entertainment and market stalls.
There's been a touch of excitement amongst teens in the Whitehaven area, as their Christmas lights are to be switched on by Kimberley Dayle. Who she? I hear you say... well, she's a Lady Gaga tribute act, returned from her US tour. She'll be doing a 15-minute set before switching on the lights, then trekking over to Whitehaven's Civic Hall for a concert. There will also be a local radio road show in the town from lunchtime. The event takes place on 21st November.
If your musical tastes are – ahem – more eclectic, you might prefer to go to Keswick's Theatre by the Lake on 5th December. They are hosting a Viennese Strauss Christmas Gala concert, with Strauss, Christmas songs and humorous seasonal readings. This sells out very quickly, so book soon!
The Theatre by the Lake is also offering 'Melody & Mirth' on 19th December, in conjunction with the local Rotary Club. Opera singers, Graeme Danby and Valerie Reid star alongside a local band.
Also not to be missed is the Theatre by the Lake's version of the childhood classic,' Tom's Midnight Garden', from 27th November to 15th January.
A couple of other Christmassy concerts that sound great include the Christmas Concert at All Saints' Church, Cockermouth, on 4th December, where you can enjoy Bach, carols and seasonal refreshments.
There's also a terrific concert planned by Ulverston Music Festivals at Eccle Rigg on 16th December, with Schumann's Liederkreis song cycle for the first half and Christmas songs in the second, with the baritone Jeremy Huw Williams.
Whitehaven Civic Centre will be hosting the annual Whitehaven Theatre Group panto, 'Snow White', from 7th – 12th December. Pantomimes are few and far between in Cumbria, so book early!
There are a number of Christmas Fairs planned:
• 19th November: Keswick Food Fayre
• 21st November: Armathwaite Hall's Christmas Fair
• 27th – 28th November: Ulverston Dickensian Fair
• 3rd December: Egremont Farmers' Market
• 4th December: Cockermouth Christmas Farmers' Market
• 5th December: Keswick Traditional Christmas Fayre
• 12th December: Rheged Christmas Food & Gift Fair
• 17th December: Egremont Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Rheged Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Ulverston Christmas Farmers' Market
If fine dining's more your thing, there are a number of upmarket eateries in the area, including Armathwaite Hall, which has delicious four-course lunches throughout December, and a serious Christmas Eve dinner with pre-dinner cocktails and pre-dinner entertainment. On Boxing Day, there's the same dinner, but with a casino afterwards!
You can combine a lovely Christmas lunch with a lake cruise on Ullswater Steamers' Spirit of Christmas cruises on December 7th and 9th. The lunch is hosted by the nearby stately home, Dalemain, in their Medieval Hall.
After all this munching, you might need a good walk. Whinlatter Forest Park is a good place to go at this time of year, partly because of the lovely Christmassy pine forests, but also because the trails are waymarked, of various lengths, and there is little risk of getting stranded in cold weather. They have trails for all levels of experience including children, an orienteering course, mountain bike trails (with bike hire), and, weather-permitting, the Go Ape! high-wire course. There's a good cafe, which usually does seasonal fare and a few days with the man in red himself (check the website for dates). You can also buy any size or shape of Christmas tree you like!
So, what'll it be? Dinner, Santa, shopping, walking, music or theatre? Go on – try them all! There are plenty of self catering Lake District cottages available across Cumbria which would make an ideal base for visiting most of these events. Just follow the link.
Wednesday, 10 November 2010
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Steam Railway
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Steam Railway (or La’al Ratty) is the Lake District’s oldest, longest miniature steam railway and undoubtably one of the most scenic railway journeys in Britain. If you are staying in self catering lake district cottages (especially in Eskdale and Wasdale), this is an unmissable day out for all the family.
The La’al Ratty runs for seven miles from the Dalegarth Visitor Centre at Boot in the heart of Eskdale out to the delightful coastal village of Ravenglass, passing through two glorious valleys at the feet of England’s highest mountains.
You can start your journey either inland at Dalegarth or out at Ravenglass on the coast. If you are coming from one of our holiday cottages in the Wasdale, Ravenglass or Gosforth areas (or even further afield) then taking the train from Ravenglass is a great way to travel up into Eskdale.
If you are staying in a cottage in Eskdale, then it’s a brilliant day trip to take the train out to the coast from one of the several stations in the valley, take a stroll along the beach and have fish and chips and a drink at the Ratty Arms and then take the train back up into the valley later in the day.
If you are taking the La’al Ratty from Eskdale out to the coast, then you can board the train at any of the stations along the line, but the main starting and stopping point is at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Boot. Here there is a play area for the children and you can watch the trains turning on the spinning wheel between each journey, have a meal or grab a snack and an ice cream.
The trip takes in the very best of this stunning part of the Lake District. Dalegarth Station is in a stunning location, flanked on all sides by the great peaks of the Lake District, with Scafell to the north and Stanley Ghyll and Birker Force to the south. From here, you travel through the open valley until you enter Beckfoot wood. After you leave the wood, the railway runs on a ledge above the valley road for a while until coming to Gilbert's cutting, undoubtedly one of the most photographic points on the line.
Here the scene changes, as the line hugs the northern side of valley, providing a break between the ruggedness of the bracken clad hillside and the softer, farmland below. The local Herdwick sheep are abound, deer are frequently seen in the woods and buzzards circle in the sky.
Before coming into Eskdale Green Station, you descend the steepest section of the line known as Hollinghow Bank and then from here, the line falls some 20 feet to the valley of the River Esk and the skyline is dominated from now by craggy Harter Fell which stands some 2160 feet above sea level.
Miterdale is a haven for red squirrels and far away from roads, cars and other signs of modern life. Views of craggy Muncaster Fell dominate, although all should look out for our unique boat-type shelter at Miteside halt. Next is Rock point, probably the most spectacular point of all, where the line swings around a rugged promontory high above the river affording great views of the Scafell range, particularly in winter.
At the end of your journey, you come into Ravenglass across tidal Barrow Marsh, home to many birds, including oyster catchers and ringed plovers. At Ravenglass, you can recover at Jan’s café and enjoy the home baking or you can pop to the Ratty Arms next door to the station and enjoy a pint of local ale.
There are lots of different options that you can include with a day on the ‘Ratty’:
Take a walk up to Muncaster Castle from Ravenglass: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Ravenglass along Muncaster Fell from Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station in Eskdale Green and then hike out to Ravenglass and have a leisurely trip back on the train.
You can also hire Mountain bikes at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Eskdale, which you can explore three specifically devised routes in the Eskdale valley by bike.
Budgie Bike Hire offer Trek 4300 Mountain Bikes in three sizes - small 16" frame, medium 18" frame and large 19". Ideal for Eskdale's rugged terrain and suitable for all ages over and above a decent sized 10-year old.
Full day hire costs £14 and half-day hire is charged at £8. The bikes are available whenever trains are running. It is recommended that availability and prices are checked before travelling as at certain times it is not unusual for all the bikes to be in use. Contact the Scafell Gift Shop on 019467 23226 for availability. The phone is manned whenever trains are running, but out of normal trading hours a message can be left on 01229 717171 (24-hour answer-phone service).
There is also a children’s play area and a café at Dalegarth, which serves everything from hot and cold drinks, sandwiches and cakes made on the premises, to full meals made to order. The café is open whenever trains are running...
Fares Guide 2010.
• Adult unlimited travel for the day – with free line guide - £11.20
• Child (aged 5-15 inclusive) - unlimited travel for the day – £5.60
• Child (under 5 free) - Free scratch card game given
• Adult single - £6.60
• Child single (aged 5-15 inclusive) - £3.30
• Family ticket - unlimited travel for the day – 2-adults, 2 children - £29.00
• Dogs - £1.50 per journey
• Cycles - £3.50 per journey (Cycles must be pre-booked - 01229 717171)
Please note that we aim to keep prices up to date, but if you would like to double check on prices, please phone 01229 717171 and ask to speak to Ravenglass Ticket Office.
Special Events
It is worth checking to see if your stay in the Lake District coincides with a special event being held on the ‘Ratty’. The Santa special, The Ghostly Hallowe’en rides and the Thomas the Tank Engine and Postman Pat themed days are all great for adults and children alike (prebooking is recommended for these events).
A bit of History
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway opened on May 24th 1875, its purpose being to ferry iron ore from workings near Boot to the coast at Ravenglass. On November 20th 1876 the first passengers were carried. Built to a gauge of 3 feet (910mm), problems soon arose relating to the iron ore and the line was declared bankrupt as early as 1877.
The line finally closed in 1913. Unused for two years, in 1915 the miniature railway engineer WJ Bassett-Lowke and his friend R Proctor-Mitchell, (representing Narrow Gauge Railways Ltd) acquired the line as a base for testing their little locomotives under fairly harsh operating conditions. By 1916 the re-gauged track (15"/381mm) ran as far as Irton Road, while during the following year the miniature trains were running the full length of the line.
Quarrying recommenced on the line near Beckfoot and granite blocks were transported to Murthwaite, where they were crushed for use mainly as road stone and railway ballast. By 1946 ownership had transferred to the Keswick Granite Company, who decided in 1953 to cease quarrying operations. With the exception of the war years passenger traffic continued throughout.
However, in 1958 and again in 1959 the line and fittings were offered for sale but, without any serious potential purchaser, it was announced that the 1960 season would be the last. The Railway was to be sold by auction in September. The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway Preservation Society was formed by enthusiasts but hopes were not high. Fortunately, two interested parties, (Colin Gilbert a midlands stockbroker and Sir Wavell Wakefield a local landowner) stepped in on the day of the auction with the balance of the purchase price.
In 1968 the railway moved on, becoming an integral part of the Wakefield family business in the Lake District. Much work had already been done to catch up with the backlog of maintenance, new coaches had been built and the Preservation Society had funded the building of a new locomotive, the River Mite. Further major works continued, Ravenglass station was re-modelled and a further locomotive, Northern Rock was built in the company's workshops, entering service in 1976.
With this great history at your finger tips why not stay in holiday cottages in the Lake District? Especially in the Eskdale/Ravenglass area. Just follow the link.
The La’al Ratty runs for seven miles from the Dalegarth Visitor Centre at Boot in the heart of Eskdale out to the delightful coastal village of Ravenglass, passing through two glorious valleys at the feet of England’s highest mountains.
You can start your journey either inland at Dalegarth or out at Ravenglass on the coast. If you are coming from one of our holiday cottages in the Wasdale, Ravenglass or Gosforth areas (or even further afield) then taking the train from Ravenglass is a great way to travel up into Eskdale.
If you are staying in a cottage in Eskdale, then it’s a brilliant day trip to take the train out to the coast from one of the several stations in the valley, take a stroll along the beach and have fish and chips and a drink at the Ratty Arms and then take the train back up into the valley later in the day.
If you are taking the La’al Ratty from Eskdale out to the coast, then you can board the train at any of the stations along the line, but the main starting and stopping point is at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Boot. Here there is a play area for the children and you can watch the trains turning on the spinning wheel between each journey, have a meal or grab a snack and an ice cream.
The trip takes in the very best of this stunning part of the Lake District. Dalegarth Station is in a stunning location, flanked on all sides by the great peaks of the Lake District, with Scafell to the north and Stanley Ghyll and Birker Force to the south. From here, you travel through the open valley until you enter Beckfoot wood. After you leave the wood, the railway runs on a ledge above the valley road for a while until coming to Gilbert's cutting, undoubtedly one of the most photographic points on the line.
Here the scene changes, as the line hugs the northern side of valley, providing a break between the ruggedness of the bracken clad hillside and the softer, farmland below. The local Herdwick sheep are abound, deer are frequently seen in the woods and buzzards circle in the sky.
Before coming into Eskdale Green Station, you descend the steepest section of the line known as Hollinghow Bank and then from here, the line falls some 20 feet to the valley of the River Esk and the skyline is dominated from now by craggy Harter Fell which stands some 2160 feet above sea level.
Miterdale is a haven for red squirrels and far away from roads, cars and other signs of modern life. Views of craggy Muncaster Fell dominate, although all should look out for our unique boat-type shelter at Miteside halt. Next is Rock point, probably the most spectacular point of all, where the line swings around a rugged promontory high above the river affording great views of the Scafell range, particularly in winter.
At the end of your journey, you come into Ravenglass across tidal Barrow Marsh, home to many birds, including oyster catchers and ringed plovers. At Ravenglass, you can recover at Jan’s café and enjoy the home baking or you can pop to the Ratty Arms next door to the station and enjoy a pint of local ale.
There are lots of different options that you can include with a day on the ‘Ratty’:
Take a walk up to Muncaster Castle from Ravenglass: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Ravenglass along Muncaster Fell from Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station in Eskdale Green and then hike out to Ravenglass and have a leisurely trip back on the train.
You can also hire Mountain bikes at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Eskdale, which you can explore three specifically devised routes in the Eskdale valley by bike.
Budgie Bike Hire offer Trek 4300 Mountain Bikes in three sizes - small 16" frame, medium 18" frame and large 19". Ideal for Eskdale's rugged terrain and suitable for all ages over and above a decent sized 10-year old.
Full day hire costs £14 and half-day hire is charged at £8. The bikes are available whenever trains are running. It is recommended that availability and prices are checked before travelling as at certain times it is not unusual for all the bikes to be in use. Contact the Scafell Gift Shop on 019467 23226 for availability. The phone is manned whenever trains are running, but out of normal trading hours a message can be left on 01229 717171 (24-hour answer-phone service).
There is also a children’s play area and a café at Dalegarth, which serves everything from hot and cold drinks, sandwiches and cakes made on the premises, to full meals made to order. The café is open whenever trains are running...
Fares Guide 2010.
• Adult unlimited travel for the day – with free line guide - £11.20
• Child (aged 5-15 inclusive) - unlimited travel for the day – £5.60
• Child (under 5 free) - Free scratch card game given
• Adult single - £6.60
• Child single (aged 5-15 inclusive) - £3.30
• Family ticket - unlimited travel for the day – 2-adults, 2 children - £29.00
• Dogs - £1.50 per journey
• Cycles - £3.50 per journey (Cycles must be pre-booked - 01229 717171)
Please note that we aim to keep prices up to date, but if you would like to double check on prices, please phone 01229 717171 and ask to speak to Ravenglass Ticket Office.
Special Events
It is worth checking to see if your stay in the Lake District coincides with a special event being held on the ‘Ratty’. The Santa special, The Ghostly Hallowe’en rides and the Thomas the Tank Engine and Postman Pat themed days are all great for adults and children alike (prebooking is recommended for these events).
A bit of History
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway opened on May 24th 1875, its purpose being to ferry iron ore from workings near Boot to the coast at Ravenglass. On November 20th 1876 the first passengers were carried. Built to a gauge of 3 feet (910mm), problems soon arose relating to the iron ore and the line was declared bankrupt as early as 1877.
The line finally closed in 1913. Unused for two years, in 1915 the miniature railway engineer WJ Bassett-Lowke and his friend R Proctor-Mitchell, (representing Narrow Gauge Railways Ltd) acquired the line as a base for testing their little locomotives under fairly harsh operating conditions. By 1916 the re-gauged track (15"/381mm) ran as far as Irton Road, while during the following year the miniature trains were running the full length of the line.
Quarrying recommenced on the line near Beckfoot and granite blocks were transported to Murthwaite, where they were crushed for use mainly as road stone and railway ballast. By 1946 ownership had transferred to the Keswick Granite Company, who decided in 1953 to cease quarrying operations. With the exception of the war years passenger traffic continued throughout.
However, in 1958 and again in 1959 the line and fittings were offered for sale but, without any serious potential purchaser, it was announced that the 1960 season would be the last. The Railway was to be sold by auction in September. The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway Preservation Society was formed by enthusiasts but hopes were not high. Fortunately, two interested parties, (Colin Gilbert a midlands stockbroker and Sir Wavell Wakefield a local landowner) stepped in on the day of the auction with the balance of the purchase price.
In 1968 the railway moved on, becoming an integral part of the Wakefield family business in the Lake District. Much work had already been done to catch up with the backlog of maintenance, new coaches had been built and the Preservation Society had funded the building of a new locomotive, the River Mite. Further major works continued, Ravenglass station was re-modelled and a further locomotive, Northern Rock was built in the company's workshops, entering service in 1976.
With this great history at your finger tips why not stay in holiday cottages in the Lake District? Especially in the Eskdale/Ravenglass area. Just follow the link.
Saturday, 6 November 2010
Walk around Loweswater
This is a spectacular walk with mountain views, grassy tracks, coniferous and deciduous woodlands, a lake and a pub. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district from which this walk is easily accessible.
Park by the road on the brow of the hill at Fangs Brow which is just over a mile from Loweswater Lake by road, or if you’re coming from Lamplugh, it’s about 1½ miles from Lamplugh church. The Google coordinates for the parking are: 54.590708, -3.386021 and to make doubly sure, it’s just a few hundred yards from a farm (before the farm if you’re coming from Lamplugh, after the farm if you’re coming from Loweswater).
By the road, you will see a gate with a sign which says “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 2 miles”. Follow the track.
t is a circular walk and you will pass a ladder stile on your left which is the way by which you will return. Continue straight on though (following the sign which says “Loweswater via High Nook”). As you are following the track you can see the Isle of Man to your right, and behind you are the hills of Scotland in the far distance.
Go through a gate and before you get to the second gate you will catch your first glimpse of Loweswater with Crummock Water behind.
The path follows the wall as it snakes up the hill to the next ladder stile. Go over it but be careful here and follow the blue arrow which leads you left down towards the lake. Do not go straight on and up.
You are now on a wonderful terrace walk with fantastic views and seats to reflect on the beauty of the scenery. As the track winds away from the lake you will cross over a small stream towards the fir plantation.
Very soon afterwards look for a small path leading left into the fir trees. Go through the kissing gate and down the fairly steep path through the trees down to Loweswater (ignoring paths to the left and right at the two crossroads).
At the lake you will meet the main path and you can either turn left to continue the circular walk or turn right which leads you to the Kirkstile Inn about a mile away. It is also possible to hire a rowing boat at the farm which is 100 yards to your right.
If you choose the pub, you will have to retrace your steps to this point but it is well worth a visit – it has won several ‘pub of the year’ awards.
So, to go to the pub, follow the path round the top of the lake leading you alongside fields until you come to a small bridge leading to a small car park.
Follow the tarmac road up to the left until you come to the main road. Turn right and follow the brown signs to the Kirkstile Inn which is just past the church.
Have a drink or a meal and a bit of a rest, and then retrace your steps – turning left out of the pub, left along the road and then second left along a tarmac road which is signed “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 0.8 miles”. Remember to turn right, through the National Trust carpark and over the cattlegrid.
Carry along the path until you rejoin where you left off by the rowing boats if they’re out. Carry on, following the path by the lake.
You will come to a split in the path which is by a bothy. Be sure to have a swing on the homemade swing which is on the small beach here. You can choose whether to go left or right at the split, as the two paths marry up again further along. The path to your right follows the lake through the woods; the one on your left is straighter and shorter but equally as beautiful. The woods are fantastic at any time of year. When we went yesterday we saw a red deer and the evening light was just lovely. In spring time it is a wonderland of bluebells, wood anemones, sorrel and violets.
The track gradually ascends until you leave the lake behind.
Keep on going through a gate and bear right past the black and white farmhouse. 40 yards past the farm there is a stile on your left and a sign pointing to Fangs Brow. Go over the stile and follow the fence on your left through the field and to another stile. Go over this stile and turn immediately right, following the hedge on your right this time.
Go through the next gate and up the rough trod, following the ancient hedge line.
Through the next gate, the trail curves up and left slightly to the next gate. Pause to have a last look at the lake behind you. Then go through the gate and follow the lane along the left hand wall. Go up the tarmac road, keeping the house on your right.
You will see another house and instead of going downhill to it, turn left up the ancient bridleway (following the small footpath sign here). Keep following the path up to the ladder stile mentioned at the start of the walk.
Once over the stile, turn right and you’re back at the car. There are several self catering lake district cottages which would make an ideal base from which to start this fantastic walk. Just follow the link.
Park by the road on the brow of the hill at Fangs Brow which is just over a mile from Loweswater Lake by road, or if you’re coming from Lamplugh, it’s about 1½ miles from Lamplugh church. The Google coordinates for the parking are: 54.590708, -3.386021 and to make doubly sure, it’s just a few hundred yards from a farm (before the farm if you’re coming from Lamplugh, after the farm if you’re coming from Loweswater).
By the road, you will see a gate with a sign which says “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 2 miles”. Follow the track.
t is a circular walk and you will pass a ladder stile on your left which is the way by which you will return. Continue straight on though (following the sign which says “Loweswater via High Nook”). As you are following the track you can see the Isle of Man to your right, and behind you are the hills of Scotland in the far distance.
Go through a gate and before you get to the second gate you will catch your first glimpse of Loweswater with Crummock Water behind.
The path follows the wall as it snakes up the hill to the next ladder stile. Go over it but be careful here and follow the blue arrow which leads you left down towards the lake. Do not go straight on and up.
You are now on a wonderful terrace walk with fantastic views and seats to reflect on the beauty of the scenery. As the track winds away from the lake you will cross over a small stream towards the fir plantation.
Very soon afterwards look for a small path leading left into the fir trees. Go through the kissing gate and down the fairly steep path through the trees down to Loweswater (ignoring paths to the left and right at the two crossroads).
At the lake you will meet the main path and you can either turn left to continue the circular walk or turn right which leads you to the Kirkstile Inn about a mile away. It is also possible to hire a rowing boat at the farm which is 100 yards to your right.
If you choose the pub, you will have to retrace your steps to this point but it is well worth a visit – it has won several ‘pub of the year’ awards.
So, to go to the pub, follow the path round the top of the lake leading you alongside fields until you come to a small bridge leading to a small car park.
Follow the tarmac road up to the left until you come to the main road. Turn right and follow the brown signs to the Kirkstile Inn which is just past the church.
Have a drink or a meal and a bit of a rest, and then retrace your steps – turning left out of the pub, left along the road and then second left along a tarmac road which is signed “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 0.8 miles”. Remember to turn right, through the National Trust carpark and over the cattlegrid.
Carry along the path until you rejoin where you left off by the rowing boats if they’re out. Carry on, following the path by the lake.
You will come to a split in the path which is by a bothy. Be sure to have a swing on the homemade swing which is on the small beach here. You can choose whether to go left or right at the split, as the two paths marry up again further along. The path to your right follows the lake through the woods; the one on your left is straighter and shorter but equally as beautiful. The woods are fantastic at any time of year. When we went yesterday we saw a red deer and the evening light was just lovely. In spring time it is a wonderland of bluebells, wood anemones, sorrel and violets.
The track gradually ascends until you leave the lake behind.
Keep on going through a gate and bear right past the black and white farmhouse. 40 yards past the farm there is a stile on your left and a sign pointing to Fangs Brow. Go over the stile and follow the fence on your left through the field and to another stile. Go over this stile and turn immediately right, following the hedge on your right this time.
Go through the next gate and up the rough trod, following the ancient hedge line.
Through the next gate, the trail curves up and left slightly to the next gate. Pause to have a last look at the lake behind you. Then go through the gate and follow the lane along the left hand wall. Go up the tarmac road, keeping the house on your right.
You will see another house and instead of going downhill to it, turn left up the ancient bridleway (following the small footpath sign here). Keep following the path up to the ladder stile mentioned at the start of the walk.
Once over the stile, turn right and you’re back at the car. There are several self catering lake district cottages which would make an ideal base from which to start this fantastic walk. Just follow the link.
Saturday, 30 October 2010
Outdoor Activities in the Lake District
As a land of mountains, lakes and coast, the Lake District area is home to a great variety of outdoor activity centres. Many of them are happy to embrace all levels of experience and age and offer everything from short taster sessions to day-long adventures. Here is my pick of the best. There are several holiday cottages in the lake district which would make an ideal base from which to experience these fabulous activities.
Mountain Biking
Whinlatter Forest Park is the place to go if you're a committed mountain-biker. The Altura Trail is one of two routes at Whinlatter, and this one is red-graded, 19km long, and described as suitable for experienced riders with good off-road skills and a high level of fitness. If you can take your eyes off the berms, jumps, rock features, skinnies and cork screws, you'll see fabulous views of Bassenthwaite Lake, Derwentwater, Helvellyn and Skiddaw from your position 500m above Keswick.
The other mountain bike route at Whinlatter Forest Park is the Quercus Trail. This is a blue grade route suitable for moderately experienced riders, with a choice of 3.5 or 7.5km lengths. There are rolling jumps and gradual climbs, and trickier parts that are designed so you can choose them or not depending on your skill level. The route takes you through an oak forest and towering conifer glades.
Bikes can be hired at Whinlatter Forest Park's on-site Cyclewise centre. If you want to record the experience for dull days and doubters, Cyclewise can also hire out head-cameras for the duration of your trip!
High Wires and Cable-assisted Routes
Do you want to 'get in touch with your inner Tarzan'? If so, the two Go Ape courses at Whinlatter and Grizedale will be just your thing - have a go on their high-wire tree crossings, zip wires and 'Tarzan drops'.
The Go Ape Centre at Whinlatter has the highest such course in the country at 360m above sea level, with a zip wire that roves through the forest, over water and clear blue skies (hopefully). The views on a good day can stretch all the way across the county to the Scottish border.
The Go Ape Course at Grizedale Forest travels the side of steep hill, 200m above Grizedale Beck.
The Newlands Adventure Centre has a high wire course, in addition to a wide choice of outdoor activities (see below).
Rookin House also has a zip wire course. They offer a wide range of other activities (see below).
The Lakes' latest high-rise adventure is the Via Ferrata, or 'iron road' at Honister Slate Mines. The route, constructed of rungs and cables, allows you to climb 2,126 feet with relative ease. Combine the trip with a visit to the mine itself, or ramp up the adrenaline further with a trip on their zip wire.
All Things Horsey
If your normal hack takes you across a bit of scrubby ground on the edge of town, you'll love the opportunities in the Lakes.
Low Farm Riding Centre takes riders of all levels out in the fells, or – bliss! – along the beach at Allonby. Short rides are available in the lovely countryside local to Aspatria, too.
Rookin House Activity Centre also offers riding for beginners and the more experienced.
If you used to make an annual appointment with the famous Lowther Show (now sadly defunct), you'll know that carriage driving is popular amongst native Cumbrians... and the royal family. You can try the sport out for yourself at the Lakeland Heavy Horse Centre at Dearham near Maryport. You can also find out all about these traditional breeds and meet some miniature Shetland ponies.
Rough Terrain Driving
Rookin House Activity Centre at Troutbeck, Penrith, is a multi-activity site offering a lot of skill and bucketloads of invention. Here you can trek out on a quad bike or mini quad bikes for 6-11 year olds, try madtrax (rough terrain buggies), JCBs (yes!), an army truck or the 4x4 course.
Rookin House also offers riding, an assault course and zip wire.
Climbing, abseiling, scrambling and walking
Apparently Carol climbs, walks, paddles, scrambles, angles and dangles, or at least, that's what it says on CarolClimb's website! Carol and Richard are based in Wasdale, close to Scafell Pike and Wastwater. They offer guided mountain walks, scrambles up ghylls in full torrent, a spot of abseiling and rock climbing. They also kayak in many of the region's lakes.
The Keswick Adventure Centre is a great one-stop shop for a myriad of outdoor activities. Beginners aged 7 to 70 can join 'taster' sessions or the more experienced can enjoy more challenging sessions. Choose from rock climbing (on the indoor climbing wall or outdoors), abseiling or walking. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
The Newlands Adventure Centre in the Newlands Valley offers ghyll scrambling, climbing, abseiling and mountain walks.
Paragliding
If you're a lover of the Lake District, you'd really enjoy a new perspective on this wonderful county. Take to the air in a paraglider!
Air Ventures operates from Keswick and flies over the northern Lake District. Kids can join in, too, in special tandem flights.
Eden Soaring takes advantage of the notoriously fierce thermals of the North Pennines in the Eden Valley.Within easy reach of the Ullswater and Penrith area.
Lakes and rivers
Many parts of the Lake District have outdoor activity providers with experienced instructors to teach you basic or more advanced skills. Try these for size...
Derwentwater Marina is a great place to go for all things watery – sailing, windsurfing, canoeing, kayaking, and raft-building. You can learn the skills from scratch, or just hire a canoe, kayak, sailing dinghy, surfboard or rowing boat and set off across the lake.
The Glenridding Sailing Centre, at the pretty village of Glenridding on Ullswater, offers the opportunity to learn to sail dinghies and traditional boats, or more modest, but just as enjoyable, canoes and kayaks. You can also hire craft to take out on the lake yourself.
The nattily-named Platty Plus at Keswick offers something different on the boating scene. Ever fancied going out in a Viking long boat or a dragon boat? Well, here's your opportunity. Platty Plus can also teach you to handle canoes, kayaks and power boats.
Just Plain Bonkers
The sort of people who set up outdoors activities businesses here in the Lake District invariably have a sense of adventure and a well-developed fun muscle. Their imagination knows few bounds...
Ever wanted to walk on water? Well, if you've visited Derwentwater recently, you will have seen people captured in large transparent balls, running across the lake in a manner a hamster would appreciate – these are the Keswick Adventure Centre's Waterwalkerz.
It's hard to know whether the staff at Rookin House had fun, revenge or punishment in mind when they invented human bowling. Perhaps a delicious combination of all three! So, if you have a strong stomach and sense of humour, you can climb into a cage-like, human-sized ball, and allow your friends to bowl you at some very large pins.
There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages across Cumbria which would be an ideal starting point to go and experience some of these great activities. Just follow the link.
Mountain Biking
Whinlatter Forest Park is the place to go if you're a committed mountain-biker. The Altura Trail is one of two routes at Whinlatter, and this one is red-graded, 19km long, and described as suitable for experienced riders with good off-road skills and a high level of fitness. If you can take your eyes off the berms, jumps, rock features, skinnies and cork screws, you'll see fabulous views of Bassenthwaite Lake, Derwentwater, Helvellyn and Skiddaw from your position 500m above Keswick.
The other mountain bike route at Whinlatter Forest Park is the Quercus Trail. This is a blue grade route suitable for moderately experienced riders, with a choice of 3.5 or 7.5km lengths. There are rolling jumps and gradual climbs, and trickier parts that are designed so you can choose them or not depending on your skill level. The route takes you through an oak forest and towering conifer glades.
Bikes can be hired at Whinlatter Forest Park's on-site Cyclewise centre. If you want to record the experience for dull days and doubters, Cyclewise can also hire out head-cameras for the duration of your trip!
High Wires and Cable-assisted Routes
Do you want to 'get in touch with your inner Tarzan'? If so, the two Go Ape courses at Whinlatter and Grizedale will be just your thing - have a go on their high-wire tree crossings, zip wires and 'Tarzan drops'.
The Go Ape Centre at Whinlatter has the highest such course in the country at 360m above sea level, with a zip wire that roves through the forest, over water and clear blue skies (hopefully). The views on a good day can stretch all the way across the county to the Scottish border.
The Go Ape Course at Grizedale Forest travels the side of steep hill, 200m above Grizedale Beck.
The Newlands Adventure Centre has a high wire course, in addition to a wide choice of outdoor activities (see below).
Rookin House also has a zip wire course. They offer a wide range of other activities (see below).
The Lakes' latest high-rise adventure is the Via Ferrata, or 'iron road' at Honister Slate Mines. The route, constructed of rungs and cables, allows you to climb 2,126 feet with relative ease. Combine the trip with a visit to the mine itself, or ramp up the adrenaline further with a trip on their zip wire.
All Things Horsey
If your normal hack takes you across a bit of scrubby ground on the edge of town, you'll love the opportunities in the Lakes.
Low Farm Riding Centre takes riders of all levels out in the fells, or – bliss! – along the beach at Allonby. Short rides are available in the lovely countryside local to Aspatria, too.
Rookin House Activity Centre also offers riding for beginners and the more experienced.
If you used to make an annual appointment with the famous Lowther Show (now sadly defunct), you'll know that carriage driving is popular amongst native Cumbrians... and the royal family. You can try the sport out for yourself at the Lakeland Heavy Horse Centre at Dearham near Maryport. You can also find out all about these traditional breeds and meet some miniature Shetland ponies.
Rough Terrain Driving
Rookin House Activity Centre at Troutbeck, Penrith, is a multi-activity site offering a lot of skill and bucketloads of invention. Here you can trek out on a quad bike or mini quad bikes for 6-11 year olds, try madtrax (rough terrain buggies), JCBs (yes!), an army truck or the 4x4 course.
Rookin House also offers riding, an assault course and zip wire.
Climbing, abseiling, scrambling and walking
Apparently Carol climbs, walks, paddles, scrambles, angles and dangles, or at least, that's what it says on CarolClimb's website! Carol and Richard are based in Wasdale, close to Scafell Pike and Wastwater. They offer guided mountain walks, scrambles up ghylls in full torrent, a spot of abseiling and rock climbing. They also kayak in many of the region's lakes.
The Keswick Adventure Centre is a great one-stop shop for a myriad of outdoor activities. Beginners aged 7 to 70 can join 'taster' sessions or the more experienced can enjoy more challenging sessions. Choose from rock climbing (on the indoor climbing wall or outdoors), abseiling or walking. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
The Newlands Adventure Centre in the Newlands Valley offers ghyll scrambling, climbing, abseiling and mountain walks.
Paragliding
If you're a lover of the Lake District, you'd really enjoy a new perspective on this wonderful county. Take to the air in a paraglider!
Air Ventures operates from Keswick and flies over the northern Lake District. Kids can join in, too, in special tandem flights.
Eden Soaring takes advantage of the notoriously fierce thermals of the North Pennines in the Eden Valley.Within easy reach of the Ullswater and Penrith area.
Lakes and rivers
Many parts of the Lake District have outdoor activity providers with experienced instructors to teach you basic or more advanced skills. Try these for size...
Derwentwater Marina is a great place to go for all things watery – sailing, windsurfing, canoeing, kayaking, and raft-building. You can learn the skills from scratch, or just hire a canoe, kayak, sailing dinghy, surfboard or rowing boat and set off across the lake.
The Glenridding Sailing Centre, at the pretty village of Glenridding on Ullswater, offers the opportunity to learn to sail dinghies and traditional boats, or more modest, but just as enjoyable, canoes and kayaks. You can also hire craft to take out on the lake yourself.
The nattily-named Platty Plus at Keswick offers something different on the boating scene. Ever fancied going out in a Viking long boat or a dragon boat? Well, here's your opportunity. Platty Plus can also teach you to handle canoes, kayaks and power boats.
Just Plain Bonkers
The sort of people who set up outdoors activities businesses here in the Lake District invariably have a sense of adventure and a well-developed fun muscle. Their imagination knows few bounds...
Ever wanted to walk on water? Well, if you've visited Derwentwater recently, you will have seen people captured in large transparent balls, running across the lake in a manner a hamster would appreciate – these are the Keswick Adventure Centre's Waterwalkerz.
It's hard to know whether the staff at Rookin House had fun, revenge or punishment in mind when they invented human bowling. Perhaps a delicious combination of all three! So, if you have a strong stomach and sense of humour, you can climb into a cage-like, human-sized ball, and allow your friends to bowl you at some very large pins.
There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages across Cumbria which would be an ideal starting point to go and experience some of these great activities. Just follow the link.
Tuesday, 26 October 2010
Famous Cumbrians
Cumbria has it’s fair share of famous people, I never realised quite how many though. Friends of mine had came and stayed in a few self catering lake district cottages and we got talking about who we thought was the most famous. I’ll have to let you decide.
1. Joss Naylor MBE (1936- )
Known as the 'King of the Fells', Joss Naylor has been a champion fell runner for nearly fifty years. And yet Naylor, a sheep farmer from Nether Wasdale, was deemed unfit for National Service as a teenager and overcame a series of injuries that would have caused most of us to live life cautiously. At the age of 30, Naylor completed 72 Lake District peaks, over a distance of 100 miles, with a total ascent of 37,000ft in under 24 hours. In 1986, he complete all 214 Wainwrights in a week. At the age of 60, he ran 60 Lakeland fells in 36 hours. At the age of 70, he completed 70 Lakeland fells; 50 miles and 25,000ft in ascent in under 21 hours.
Fans run in his footsteps on the Joss Naylor Challenge – 30 Lake District summits from Pooley Bridge at Ullswater to Joss's house in Wasdale.
2. Beatrix Potter (1866 – 1943)
Beatrix Potter was in many ways the ultimate Cumbrian, and yet she was born in London. Unmarried until her 40s, Beatrix struggled initially to make an independent living. She finally self-published 250 copies of 'The Tale of Peter Rabbit' in 1901; these were noticed by the publisher, Frederick Warne, and by the end of the following year, they had printed no less than 28,000 copies. Beatrix went on to write another 22 books, and used the proceeds to buy Hill Top Farm, near Hawkshead.
Her legacy to the Lake District is her interest in conservation and traditional farming; she was a breeder of native Lakes Herdwick sheep, and bought many acres of farmland. On her death in 1943, she bequeathed 4,000 acres of land to the National Trust, including Penny Hill Farm Cottage in Eskdale. The 2006 film, Miss Potter, covers Beatrix's early life; Low Millgillhead Cottage in Lamplugh near Loweswater was one of the uncredited sets!
3. St. Patrick (5th c)
Best known as the patron saint of Ireland, most sources agree that St. Patrick was born in Cumbria some time in the fifth century. Opinions are divided as to whether he was brought up at the Roman fort of Birdoswald, in the northeast of the county, or the west Cumbrian coastal village of Ravenglass, site of another Roman fort. Patrick, who had been kidnapped into slavery in Ireland at the age of sixteen, escaped his bondage, landed at Duddon Sands and walked to Patterdale – 'St. Patrick's Dale' near Ullswater. He travelled via Aspatria – ' ash of Patrick' – where the locals took so long to be converted that his ash walking staff grew into a tree! There's also a St. Patrick's Well near Glenridding, where the saint baptised the people of the Ullswater area.
4. Helen Skelton (1983- )
That's right,' Blue Peter's' action woman is all-Cumbrian! Born in the Eden Valley village of Kirkby Thore, between Appleby and Penrith, Helen started her broadcasting career in local radio and Border Television before becoming a reporter for the BBC's children's news programme, 'Newsround'. She became a 'Blue Peter' presenter in 2008. Since then, Helen has completed the Namibian Ultra marathon – only the second woman to have done so – and has kayaked the length of the Amazon, gaining her two mentions in the Guinness Book of Records. Closer to home, Helen competed in the annual Muncaster Castle Festival of Fools in 2009. Muncaster's famous seventeenth-century jester, the original 'Tom Fool' was actually Thomas Skelton. Perhaps they're related?
5. Fletcher Christian (1764 – 1793)
It's probably safe to say you're famous if Errol Flynn, Clark Gable, Marlon Brando and Mel Gibson have all played you in blockbuster films. Fletcher Christian was born in Brigham, near Cockermouth, where he went to school with the poet, William Wordsworth. Christian had travelled to India and twice with Captain Bligh to Jamaica before they set off on the ill-fated trip to Tahiti in April, 1789. Later that year, 1300 miles west of Tahiti, Christian led the mutiny on the Bounty.
Having married a Tahitian princess, Christian, eight mutineers, six Tahitian men and eleven Tahitian women landed on Pitcairn Island. By 1808, only one mutineer was left alive. What became of Christian? One said he was shot; another variously said he died of natural causes, committed suicide, or was murdered. Rumours persist, however, that he escaped, returned to the Lake District and inspired Coleridge's 'Rime of the Ancient Mariner'. Who knows?
6. Norman Nicholson OBE (1914 – 1987)
Where the River Duddon meets the sea, under the towering form of Black Combe, lies the former mining town of Millom and life-long home to the poet, Norman Nicholson. Nicholson's Cumbrian connection defined both his reputation and his work, with many of his poems paying tribute to the town, the Duddon Valley, and local sights such as Scafell Pike, Whitehaven, Patterdale, stone circles and the western coast. His words contrast vividly the reality of the declining mining town and the timeless grandeur of the natural Lake District environment.
'There stands the base and root of the living rock
Thirty thousand feet of solid Cumberland.' (To the River Duddon)
7. Stan Laurel (1890 – 1965)
Arthur Stanley Jefferson, better known as Stan Laurel, the skinny half of Laurel and Hardy, was born in Ulverston, where the west Cumbrian coast meets Morecambe Bay. Laurel spent much of his life in the US, meeting Oliver Hardy in 1927 before the 'talkies' had taken over the world of film. Laurel made 190 films in total, including 'Duck Soup', 'Pardon Us' and 'Saps at Sea'. After Oliver Hardy's sudden death in 1957, Laurel never acted again, although he continued to write. A statue of Stan Laurel was unveiled in Ulverston in April '09.
8. Leo Houlding (1981 - )
Leo Houlding attracts many labels. Rock climber, extreme adventurer, mountaineer, base jumper, snowboarder, surfer and skydiver. Brought up in the village of Bolton in the Eden Valley, Houlding is now based in the Lake District but travels the world climbing. He can still be spotted at Lakes events such as the Keswick Mountain Festival, encouraging young people to try out what he loves best!
Houlding was the first Briton to free-climb El Capitan in 1998, at the age of 17. In 2007, he accompanied Conrad Anker on the Altitude Everest Expedition, which traced the steps of George Mallory; this was the first recorded ascent of the North East Ridge of Everest. Houlding is often spotted on TV these days – the BBC's 'My Right Foot', 'Top Gear', and 'Adrenaline Junkie' with Jack Osbourne.
9. Catherine Parr (1512 – 1548)
Queen of England from 1543 – 1547, Catherine Parr was the last of Henry VIII's six wives. Catherine was born at Kendal Castle just south of the Lakes, and was an excellent example of Cumbria's strong-willed, outspoken and fair-minded womenfolk. She had been widowed twice before she caught the king's eye in 1543 and was obliged to marry him despite her relationship with Sir Thomas Seymour, brother of the nine-days' queen, Jane Seymour. For three months in 1544, Catherine was appointed Regent whilst Henry VIII was away in France, and carried out all the king's responsibilities.
In 1547, Henry died, and Catherine was free to marry Seymour; her stepdaughter, the future Elizabeth I, came to live with them. Sadly, the relationship was soured by Seymour's attraction to the young princess, and a pregnant Catherine was obliged to send Elizabeth away. Catherine died five days after giving birth to her only daughter in 1548. And the scheming Seymour? Beheaded for treason one year later.
10. William Wordsworth (1770 - 1850)
William Wordsworth was promoting Cumbria way before Lake District holidays were invented! A leading figure in the Romantic movement, Wordsworth wrote poetry inspired by strong emotion, but 'remembered in tranquillity'. Born in Cockermouth and educated in Penrith and Hawkshead, Wordsworth returned to the Lake District in 1799 to live in Dove Cottage in Grasmere.
Perhaps his most famous words, written about an Ullswater spring, are:
'I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o'er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host of golden daffodills...'
Wordsworth also loved the Duddon Valley:
'...Still glides the Stream, and shall for ever glide...'
He even mentioned some Lake District trees, known to be ancient even then:
'There is a Yew-tree, pride of Lorton Vale
Which to this day stands single...'
'...But worthier still of note
Are those fraternal four of Borrowdale.'
In 1813, the Wordsworths moved to Rydal Mount (also open to the public) in Ambleside. William was appointed Poet Laureate in 1843. He died in 1850, and at St. Oswald's, Grasmere.
There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district which are worth a visit so you can follow in some of these famous cumbrian’s footsteps. Just follow the link.
1. Joss Naylor MBE (1936- )
Known as the 'King of the Fells', Joss Naylor has been a champion fell runner for nearly fifty years. And yet Naylor, a sheep farmer from Nether Wasdale, was deemed unfit for National Service as a teenager and overcame a series of injuries that would have caused most of us to live life cautiously. At the age of 30, Naylor completed 72 Lake District peaks, over a distance of 100 miles, with a total ascent of 37,000ft in under 24 hours. In 1986, he complete all 214 Wainwrights in a week. At the age of 60, he ran 60 Lakeland fells in 36 hours. At the age of 70, he completed 70 Lakeland fells; 50 miles and 25,000ft in ascent in under 21 hours.
Fans run in his footsteps on the Joss Naylor Challenge – 30 Lake District summits from Pooley Bridge at Ullswater to Joss's house in Wasdale.
2. Beatrix Potter (1866 – 1943)
Beatrix Potter was in many ways the ultimate Cumbrian, and yet she was born in London. Unmarried until her 40s, Beatrix struggled initially to make an independent living. She finally self-published 250 copies of 'The Tale of Peter Rabbit' in 1901; these were noticed by the publisher, Frederick Warne, and by the end of the following year, they had printed no less than 28,000 copies. Beatrix went on to write another 22 books, and used the proceeds to buy Hill Top Farm, near Hawkshead.
Her legacy to the Lake District is her interest in conservation and traditional farming; she was a breeder of native Lakes Herdwick sheep, and bought many acres of farmland. On her death in 1943, she bequeathed 4,000 acres of land to the National Trust, including Penny Hill Farm Cottage in Eskdale. The 2006 film, Miss Potter, covers Beatrix's early life; Low Millgillhead Cottage in Lamplugh near Loweswater was one of the uncredited sets!
3. St. Patrick (5th c)
Best known as the patron saint of Ireland, most sources agree that St. Patrick was born in Cumbria some time in the fifth century. Opinions are divided as to whether he was brought up at the Roman fort of Birdoswald, in the northeast of the county, or the west Cumbrian coastal village of Ravenglass, site of another Roman fort. Patrick, who had been kidnapped into slavery in Ireland at the age of sixteen, escaped his bondage, landed at Duddon Sands and walked to Patterdale – 'St. Patrick's Dale' near Ullswater. He travelled via Aspatria – ' ash of Patrick' – where the locals took so long to be converted that his ash walking staff grew into a tree! There's also a St. Patrick's Well near Glenridding, where the saint baptised the people of the Ullswater area.
4. Helen Skelton (1983- )
That's right,' Blue Peter's' action woman is all-Cumbrian! Born in the Eden Valley village of Kirkby Thore, between Appleby and Penrith, Helen started her broadcasting career in local radio and Border Television before becoming a reporter for the BBC's children's news programme, 'Newsround'. She became a 'Blue Peter' presenter in 2008. Since then, Helen has completed the Namibian Ultra marathon – only the second woman to have done so – and has kayaked the length of the Amazon, gaining her two mentions in the Guinness Book of Records. Closer to home, Helen competed in the annual Muncaster Castle Festival of Fools in 2009. Muncaster's famous seventeenth-century jester, the original 'Tom Fool' was actually Thomas Skelton. Perhaps they're related?
5. Fletcher Christian (1764 – 1793)
It's probably safe to say you're famous if Errol Flynn, Clark Gable, Marlon Brando and Mel Gibson have all played you in blockbuster films. Fletcher Christian was born in Brigham, near Cockermouth, where he went to school with the poet, William Wordsworth. Christian had travelled to India and twice with Captain Bligh to Jamaica before they set off on the ill-fated trip to Tahiti in April, 1789. Later that year, 1300 miles west of Tahiti, Christian led the mutiny on the Bounty.
Having married a Tahitian princess, Christian, eight mutineers, six Tahitian men and eleven Tahitian women landed on Pitcairn Island. By 1808, only one mutineer was left alive. What became of Christian? One said he was shot; another variously said he died of natural causes, committed suicide, or was murdered. Rumours persist, however, that he escaped, returned to the Lake District and inspired Coleridge's 'Rime of the Ancient Mariner'. Who knows?
6. Norman Nicholson OBE (1914 – 1987)
Where the River Duddon meets the sea, under the towering form of Black Combe, lies the former mining town of Millom and life-long home to the poet, Norman Nicholson. Nicholson's Cumbrian connection defined both his reputation and his work, with many of his poems paying tribute to the town, the Duddon Valley, and local sights such as Scafell Pike, Whitehaven, Patterdale, stone circles and the western coast. His words contrast vividly the reality of the declining mining town and the timeless grandeur of the natural Lake District environment.
'There stands the base and root of the living rock
Thirty thousand feet of solid Cumberland.' (To the River Duddon)
7. Stan Laurel (1890 – 1965)
Arthur Stanley Jefferson, better known as Stan Laurel, the skinny half of Laurel and Hardy, was born in Ulverston, where the west Cumbrian coast meets Morecambe Bay. Laurel spent much of his life in the US, meeting Oliver Hardy in 1927 before the 'talkies' had taken over the world of film. Laurel made 190 films in total, including 'Duck Soup', 'Pardon Us' and 'Saps at Sea'. After Oliver Hardy's sudden death in 1957, Laurel never acted again, although he continued to write. A statue of Stan Laurel was unveiled in Ulverston in April '09.
8. Leo Houlding (1981 - )
Leo Houlding attracts many labels. Rock climber, extreme adventurer, mountaineer, base jumper, snowboarder, surfer and skydiver. Brought up in the village of Bolton in the Eden Valley, Houlding is now based in the Lake District but travels the world climbing. He can still be spotted at Lakes events such as the Keswick Mountain Festival, encouraging young people to try out what he loves best!
Houlding was the first Briton to free-climb El Capitan in 1998, at the age of 17. In 2007, he accompanied Conrad Anker on the Altitude Everest Expedition, which traced the steps of George Mallory; this was the first recorded ascent of the North East Ridge of Everest. Houlding is often spotted on TV these days – the BBC's 'My Right Foot', 'Top Gear', and 'Adrenaline Junkie' with Jack Osbourne.
9. Catherine Parr (1512 – 1548)
Queen of England from 1543 – 1547, Catherine Parr was the last of Henry VIII's six wives. Catherine was born at Kendal Castle just south of the Lakes, and was an excellent example of Cumbria's strong-willed, outspoken and fair-minded womenfolk. She had been widowed twice before she caught the king's eye in 1543 and was obliged to marry him despite her relationship with Sir Thomas Seymour, brother of the nine-days' queen, Jane Seymour. For three months in 1544, Catherine was appointed Regent whilst Henry VIII was away in France, and carried out all the king's responsibilities.
In 1547, Henry died, and Catherine was free to marry Seymour; her stepdaughter, the future Elizabeth I, came to live with them. Sadly, the relationship was soured by Seymour's attraction to the young princess, and a pregnant Catherine was obliged to send Elizabeth away. Catherine died five days after giving birth to her only daughter in 1548. And the scheming Seymour? Beheaded for treason one year later.
10. William Wordsworth (1770 - 1850)
William Wordsworth was promoting Cumbria way before Lake District holidays were invented! A leading figure in the Romantic movement, Wordsworth wrote poetry inspired by strong emotion, but 'remembered in tranquillity'. Born in Cockermouth and educated in Penrith and Hawkshead, Wordsworth returned to the Lake District in 1799 to live in Dove Cottage in Grasmere.
Perhaps his most famous words, written about an Ullswater spring, are:
'I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o'er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host of golden daffodills...'
Wordsworth also loved the Duddon Valley:
'...Still glides the Stream, and shall for ever glide...'
He even mentioned some Lake District trees, known to be ancient even then:
'There is a Yew-tree, pride of Lorton Vale
Which to this day stands single...'
'...But worthier still of note
Are those fraternal four of Borrowdale.'
In 1813, the Wordsworths moved to Rydal Mount (also open to the public) in Ambleside. William was appointed Poet Laureate in 1843. He died in 1850, and at St. Oswald's, Grasmere.
There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district which are worth a visit so you can follow in some of these famous cumbrian’s footsteps. Just follow the link.
Wednesday, 20 October 2010
Top Ten Spas in the Lake District
Let the long autumn and winter ease by and indulge yourself at one of the local spas the lake District has to offer. We have reviewed our top ten spas to help you have a relaxing break and don’t forget there are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district to make it that little bit extra special.
1. Armathwaite Hall, Bassenthwaite Lake
There could be no more relaxing location for a spa than this spectacular country house set in 400 acres of parkland on the shores of Bassenthwaite Lake, one of the beautiful but least busy parts of the Lake District.
The Spa is brand new, and fully kitted-out with an infinity pool, hydrotherapy suite, wallow pool (what a lovely idea!), sauna, aroma room, steam room, tropical shower and a gym. All the usual beauty treatments are offered.
A full Day Spa, including lunch, treatments, and use of facilities costs from an affordable £65 to a luxurious £270. If you just fancy a spruce-up after a day out on the fells, try their Evening Spa (from £70) for four hours in their fabulous facilities plus a beauty treatment. Groups of ladies can book special 'Girls' Day Out' evening packages, which include the usual, plus champagne, canapes and chocolate-dipped strawberries – all enjoyed from the comfort of the outdoor hot tub!
2. High Head Spa, Ivegill, Eden Valley
This spa is located in High Head Sculpture Valley, a park well known for its large sculptures displayed along woodland paths. It hosts indoor exhibitions throughout the year and the occasional big 'do in the summer – and now, it has a luxurious beauty spa.
So – we say let the kids and chaps take to the park, and the ladies can go for High Head's 'Million Dollars' beauty package (£75), or, if pushed for time, a Half Day for just £45. There's a full range of treatments including aromatherapy, hot stones massage, reflexology and manicures – after which, I suggest retiring to the Farmhouse Tea Room for something delicious!
3. Lodore Falls Spa, Borrowdale
Perhaps you've visited the Lodore Falls themselves on a trip to the Lake District – wonderful frothy waterfalls tumbling from the Borrowdale fells towards Derwentwater. Well, did you know that you can take a refreshing dip there, then retire to the Lodore Falls Spa for a sauna and warming massage? (Waterfall Days from £179.)
They have a pool, sauna, tennis and squash courts, a hot tub and the usual range of treatments, including the rather lovely Exotic Lime & Ginger Salt Glow Body Treatment – heaven!
There are a number of offers starting from a Spa Evening, including nibbles and wine, for £45. Parties can book a Ladies' Day, where you can enjoy treatments, lunch and use of the pool and tennis courts for just £69pp. Even youngsters are catered for, with their 'Top to Toe' package for ages 14+, including hands, feet and a facial for just £35. Sounds like a mums' and daughters' day out to me!
4. Langdale Spa, Great Langdale, nr. Ambleside
The Langdale Spa is wonderfully located in the 35-acre, wooded Langdale Estate. It has a 20 metre swimming pool, whirlpool spa bath, steam room and tropical shower and a full selection of Elemis, Guinot and Anne Semonin treatments, including facials, massages, scrubs, polishes, wraps and manicures. The Exotic Frangipani Body Nourishing Wrap sounds wonderful.
They offer a number of Spa Day treatments, from special offers at £59 to £195, and include a special day for pregnant ladies called – wait for it – 'Blooming Marvellous'.
5. Amethyst Health & Beauty, Cockermouth
Let's face it, there are times when you're up for a full day's fluffy-robe-and-slippers, and other occasions when all you need is an efficient brush-up by an expert.
Amethyst is just right for this – a full range of scented Decleor skincare, plus reflexology, indian head massage and aromatherapy. Men can have a traditional wet shave, and ladies can choose anything from a well-priced one-and-a-half-hour massage (£40) to an express manicure (just £10). Feet no longer sandal-worthy after a day in the fells? Have a Spa Foot Treatment (£27).
6. Netherwood Spa, Grange-over-Sands
This Spa is based at a former country house with lovely gardens, overlooking the sands of Morecambe Bay. It has all the facilities you'd expect: a pool, jacuzzi, steam room, gym and lots of treatments. A Mini Pamper (£45) will buff up your eyes, face, hands and feet (just what you need before a big night out) or push the boat out and take a full Deluxe Pamper Day (£153) with a swim, massage and treatments.
7. North Lakes Hotel Spa, Penrith
Okay, so you've just got to the Lake District, after a long travail along either the M6 or A66. Well, guess what? There's a spa to greet you – the North Lakes.
The North Lakes has a gym with all the latest equipment, a whirlpool, steam room, a swimming pool, tanning booths and lots of treatments. No need to worry about hubby and the kids, either – there's a children's activity room and splash pool, and a range of treatments for men.
There are full Day Spas (from £75) with access to facilities, and, depending on the package, treatments; a Holistic Day Spa (£105) includes back, face and scalp massage, exfoliation and hands or feet. There's even a Pregnancy Package focussing on feet – an area that becomes hard to reach!
8. Elements Beauty, Cockermouth
Elements is just the sort of handy, expert place you need when the rest of your group is heading up Pillar Rock and your muscles have had enough. Try their Swedish Massage to assuage your aching parts, or indulge in some relaxing aromatherapy. A leg and foot treatment (£18.50) is wonderful if your tootsies have spent the rest of the week in walking boots, or go for the full monty – a full body massage (just £30).
After all this indulgence, I dare say the men will be jealous. No need – there's a full range of treatments for men, too.
9. Oxley's at Underscar, nr. Keswick
The two Blue Fish Spas (the other's in Ambleside) are favourites with locals. Oxley's at Underscar is located in 40 acres of woodland on the slopes of Skiddaw, a couple of miles from Keswick; it feels like you're really out in the wilds, but it's convenient for much of the north and west Lake District.
Here you can have the usual options including Decleor scented facials, indian head massage and reflexology. Spa Days start from £65, although I find myself drawn to their 'Earthly Pleasures' (£99) and 'Dreaming' (£150) packages. How lovely. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
10. Aqua Sana, Whinfell Forest Park
Whinfell Forest Park is best known as a wildlife park and red squirrel sanctuary, but it also has a wonderful spa with extraordinarily-named facilities such as the Balinese multi-steam bath, the zen garden, the Greek herbal bath, the ice fountain and multi-sensory showers. You can just spend a few hours trying all these for £69 – with a glass of champagne and lunch – or you can spend a little more and enjoy some of their specialist treatments.
Aqua Sana uses Decleor products, including the Madagascan Red Island Ritual – a spicy-scented scrub, with warming fragrant oils. Top of the range? A Decleor Quartz Lift Facial, which, they say, has been proven to reduce wrinkles, for a little while, at least. Can't be bad.
Please note all details are believed to be correct at the time of writing, but please check the establishment's website for prices, package details, opening times and terms & conditions.
To find self catering lake district cottages within easy reach of one of thes spas just follow the link.
1. Armathwaite Hall, Bassenthwaite Lake
There could be no more relaxing location for a spa than this spectacular country house set in 400 acres of parkland on the shores of Bassenthwaite Lake, one of the beautiful but least busy parts of the Lake District.
The Spa is brand new, and fully kitted-out with an infinity pool, hydrotherapy suite, wallow pool (what a lovely idea!), sauna, aroma room, steam room, tropical shower and a gym. All the usual beauty treatments are offered.
A full Day Spa, including lunch, treatments, and use of facilities costs from an affordable £65 to a luxurious £270. If you just fancy a spruce-up after a day out on the fells, try their Evening Spa (from £70) for four hours in their fabulous facilities plus a beauty treatment. Groups of ladies can book special 'Girls' Day Out' evening packages, which include the usual, plus champagne, canapes and chocolate-dipped strawberries – all enjoyed from the comfort of the outdoor hot tub!
2. High Head Spa, Ivegill, Eden Valley
This spa is located in High Head Sculpture Valley, a park well known for its large sculptures displayed along woodland paths. It hosts indoor exhibitions throughout the year and the occasional big 'do in the summer – and now, it has a luxurious beauty spa.
So – we say let the kids and chaps take to the park, and the ladies can go for High Head's 'Million Dollars' beauty package (£75), or, if pushed for time, a Half Day for just £45. There's a full range of treatments including aromatherapy, hot stones massage, reflexology and manicures – after which, I suggest retiring to the Farmhouse Tea Room for something delicious!
3. Lodore Falls Spa, Borrowdale
Perhaps you've visited the Lodore Falls themselves on a trip to the Lake District – wonderful frothy waterfalls tumbling from the Borrowdale fells towards Derwentwater. Well, did you know that you can take a refreshing dip there, then retire to the Lodore Falls Spa for a sauna and warming massage? (Waterfall Days from £179.)
They have a pool, sauna, tennis and squash courts, a hot tub and the usual range of treatments, including the rather lovely Exotic Lime & Ginger Salt Glow Body Treatment – heaven!
There are a number of offers starting from a Spa Evening, including nibbles and wine, for £45. Parties can book a Ladies' Day, where you can enjoy treatments, lunch and use of the pool and tennis courts for just £69pp. Even youngsters are catered for, with their 'Top to Toe' package for ages 14+, including hands, feet and a facial for just £35. Sounds like a mums' and daughters' day out to me!
4. Langdale Spa, Great Langdale, nr. Ambleside
The Langdale Spa is wonderfully located in the 35-acre, wooded Langdale Estate. It has a 20 metre swimming pool, whirlpool spa bath, steam room and tropical shower and a full selection of Elemis, Guinot and Anne Semonin treatments, including facials, massages, scrubs, polishes, wraps and manicures. The Exotic Frangipani Body Nourishing Wrap sounds wonderful.
They offer a number of Spa Day treatments, from special offers at £59 to £195, and include a special day for pregnant ladies called – wait for it – 'Blooming Marvellous'.
5. Amethyst Health & Beauty, Cockermouth
Let's face it, there are times when you're up for a full day's fluffy-robe-and-slippers, and other occasions when all you need is an efficient brush-up by an expert.
Amethyst is just right for this – a full range of scented Decleor skincare, plus reflexology, indian head massage and aromatherapy. Men can have a traditional wet shave, and ladies can choose anything from a well-priced one-and-a-half-hour massage (£40) to an express manicure (just £10). Feet no longer sandal-worthy after a day in the fells? Have a Spa Foot Treatment (£27).
6. Netherwood Spa, Grange-over-Sands
This Spa is based at a former country house with lovely gardens, overlooking the sands of Morecambe Bay. It has all the facilities you'd expect: a pool, jacuzzi, steam room, gym and lots of treatments. A Mini Pamper (£45) will buff up your eyes, face, hands and feet (just what you need before a big night out) or push the boat out and take a full Deluxe Pamper Day (£153) with a swim, massage and treatments.
7. North Lakes Hotel Spa, Penrith
Okay, so you've just got to the Lake District, after a long travail along either the M6 or A66. Well, guess what? There's a spa to greet you – the North Lakes.
The North Lakes has a gym with all the latest equipment, a whirlpool, steam room, a swimming pool, tanning booths and lots of treatments. No need to worry about hubby and the kids, either – there's a children's activity room and splash pool, and a range of treatments for men.
There are full Day Spas (from £75) with access to facilities, and, depending on the package, treatments; a Holistic Day Spa (£105) includes back, face and scalp massage, exfoliation and hands or feet. There's even a Pregnancy Package focussing on feet – an area that becomes hard to reach!
8. Elements Beauty, Cockermouth
Elements is just the sort of handy, expert place you need when the rest of your group is heading up Pillar Rock and your muscles have had enough. Try their Swedish Massage to assuage your aching parts, or indulge in some relaxing aromatherapy. A leg and foot treatment (£18.50) is wonderful if your tootsies have spent the rest of the week in walking boots, or go for the full monty – a full body massage (just £30).
After all this indulgence, I dare say the men will be jealous. No need – there's a full range of treatments for men, too.
9. Oxley's at Underscar, nr. Keswick
The two Blue Fish Spas (the other's in Ambleside) are favourites with locals. Oxley's at Underscar is located in 40 acres of woodland on the slopes of Skiddaw, a couple of miles from Keswick; it feels like you're really out in the wilds, but it's convenient for much of the north and west Lake District.
Here you can have the usual options including Decleor scented facials, indian head massage and reflexology. Spa Days start from £65, although I find myself drawn to their 'Earthly Pleasures' (£99) and 'Dreaming' (£150) packages. How lovely. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
10. Aqua Sana, Whinfell Forest Park
Whinfell Forest Park is best known as a wildlife park and red squirrel sanctuary, but it also has a wonderful spa with extraordinarily-named facilities such as the Balinese multi-steam bath, the zen garden, the Greek herbal bath, the ice fountain and multi-sensory showers. You can just spend a few hours trying all these for £69 – with a glass of champagne and lunch – or you can spend a little more and enjoy some of their specialist treatments.
Aqua Sana uses Decleor products, including the Madagascan Red Island Ritual – a spicy-scented scrub, with warming fragrant oils. Top of the range? A Decleor Quartz Lift Facial, which, they say, has been proven to reduce wrinkles, for a little while, at least. Can't be bad.
Please note all details are believed to be correct at the time of writing, but please check the establishment's website for prices, package details, opening times and terms & conditions.
To find self catering lake district cottages within easy reach of one of thes spas just follow the link.
Thursday, 30 September 2010
Walk around Bassenthwaite
This is a fabulous walk, not least because it takes in a good pub halfway round!
We park near St Bega’s church which is a lovely little church, built on the shores of Bassenthwaite Lake over 900 years ago. To get to St Bega’s, follow the A591 from Keswick (where you will find several self catering lake district cottages) towards Bassenthwaite. Carry on for about 4 miles and then turn left down a small single tracked road (signed Bassenthwaite Lake & Scarness). The parking for St Bega’s is just down here and then you will need to walk across a couple of fields and an avenue of ancient oaks to get to the church itself.
After checking out the church, where you’ll find Melvyn Bragg is a patron in recognition of his book ‘Credo’, retrace your steps back along the oak avenue until it starts to go uphill and then turn left across the pasture to a wood which is accessed via a stile. This wood is beautiful in Spring with primroses and bluebells. It’s a small wood, and once through, you cross another field and then into another wood beyond. The badger sets here are massive. In fact, my dog once had several hours of playtime underground checking out what was what.
Once through the second wood, go straight across two fields towards the large ash tree and through the kissing gate. Cross the farm track and into the field opposite. Head for the other side, towards the right hand corner (this is right of the woods) and there you will find a stile which accesses the small road just further down from where you originally parked.
Turn left and follow the road for about 200 yards. Take the public footpath which is signed to your left, down some wooden steps just before the bridge. If you’re lucky you might meet a horse in the field behind the fence here which is very friendly.
The path follows a little beck and there is an abundance of wildflowers depending on the time of year. You’ll cross a little bridge and eventually come to a gate which is some way left of the farm itself. This part of the walk is liable to be wet, so do wear strong shoes or boots. Go through the gate and then turn left towards Bassenthwaite Lake. This lovely stretch of water has a resident pair of swans all year, magnificent lily-pads in summer, and a variety of birds. The photo shows a pair of oyster catchers.
You then follow the lakeshore for about a mile and a half. It’s very pleasant and quiet, being away from the usual crowds in the more central lakes. If there has been a lot of rain, you may bless those stout shoes. If it is sunny, then take a towel and have a swim!
You will eventually come to some wooden lodges built on the shoreside. Before these is a landing stage. You’ll need to cross the strip of land with the ‘slipway’ and then through the gate at the far side. This brings you to a strip of woodland. Turn right up here keeping the wooden lodges to your left.
Now it depends on whether you want more footpaths or whether you want to get to the pub. I tend to lean towards the latter and so when you get to the end of the footpath (by the entrance drive to Bassenthwaite Lodges), I turn right along the road and then first left down another single track road - signed Bassenthwaite, helpfully. There are not many cars here and it is lovely with the hedgerows starting to bloom in the springtime.
After about a mile, you will reach the A591 again, go straight across the road here and follow the road opposite up to Bassenthwaite village itself. When you get to the village green, turn right through an avenue of lime trees and then follow the road past a small farm and the Sun Inn is just round the corner.
It is a lovely pub and serves good food and fine ales. It does get busy during the school holidays so you may need to book – the number is 017687 76439. It was originally built as a farmhouse in the 16th Century and has oak beams, squeaking floors and low ceilings. Dogs are also welcome at the pub and tend to love the open fires.
After you have been in a nice warm pub and consumed vast quantities of ale, pie and chips (or whatever else may have taken your fancy) you will either be feeling relaxed and sleepy or eager and ready to go. If it is the former, I would suggest retracing your route back to St Bega’s church as this is a flat walk. However, if you fancy working off some of those calories, then you can get back to the car via the lower slopes of Ullock Pike.
To do this, go back to the village green and then cut up left at the start of the green, (Back Green) towards Green Cottage and then left again past a few other cottages. At the end of the lane go through the gate, where the path is signed to Burthwaite, and walk to the opposite side of the field. Underneath the tall tree is another stile to go over and then you need to head towards the telegraph pole and the farm ahead. Before the farm, by the pole is a narrow gate on your right. Go through it, over the grass and to the single track road. On the road, turn left, go past the farm and carry on until you reach a wooded area on your right. Go over the stile beside a gate with a footpath sign and into the woods.
Opposite you is a small bridge over the river, go over this and up the hill beyond it. Then go left and follow the edge of the field to another gate. Cross the narrow road and head up the farm track directly opposite, signed ‘Hole House’. Here’s a fine view of Skiddaw directly in front of you. Follow the track past the front of Hole House, down before the barn, then right before the track goes down to the stream, up a path marked ‘Bridleway’. Follow this path up through an oak wood, keeping the fence on your right, to the gate at the top.
Through this, turn right onto another farm track, and walk 50 yards up to the farm. Over the stile, take the left hand track opposite the farm and follow it upwards keeping a fence and a line of larches on your left. When the track bears left through a gate, abandon it and instead turn 90 degrees right and head up through the saddle with ancient hawthorn trees on your right. As you breast the saddle in 100 yards a breath-taking view of Bassenthwaite Lake appears, along with a ladder stile and a gate. DON’T GO THROUGH OR OVER! Instead, turn hard left up a grassy track back towards Skiddaw. Follow this till you reach a gate and stile out onto the open fell.
Go through, then turn immediately right and follow the wall (on your right) up onto the brow of the hill above you. Say hello nicely to this wall, it will be on your right for the next mile or so. As you crest the hill fabulous views open up of Bassenthwaite Lake, Lord’s Seat, and off to the Cumbrian coast. Also, well off to the right, the wind farm at Bothel. If you’re not that attached to the wall, you can allow yourself to drift up the hill and follow any of the sheep tracks that contour round the end of the hill, or you can stick rigidly to your new friend. On the right day, you may well find paragliders taking off above you and soaring along Ullock Pike.
At the end of whatever path you’ve chosen you will come to the main footpath leading down, and you should make sure you’re back with your wall by the time it ends and becomes a fence surrounding a new plantation, and starts to descend rapidly. The path goes through a gate and into a mixed woodland via zig-zags that cross a forest track in 15 yards. Steeply down through another gate/stile right down to the A591.
Turn right and up through the grounds of the Ravenstone Hotel on their drive.
Afternoon tea on their terrace is very inviting, if you’ve shaken down lunch. At the end of their drive you need to cross the A591 and pick up the path directly opposite, signed St Bega’s church, by the bus stop. It leads off down and left, over a stile/gate, past three magnificent Douglas Firs into the field below Ravenstone Lodge. Aim for the kissing gate, and through it across the obvious path towards the copse. Over the stile, through the copse, and onto Kissing Gate Alley. There are four in 300 yards, so make sure you’re directly behind someone you fancy! The last one leads straight to your car. There are several holiday cottages in the lake district which are in the area of Bassenthwaite which make a great base to explore this part of the Lake District.
We park near St Bega’s church which is a lovely little church, built on the shores of Bassenthwaite Lake over 900 years ago. To get to St Bega’s, follow the A591 from Keswick (where you will find several self catering lake district cottages) towards Bassenthwaite. Carry on for about 4 miles and then turn left down a small single tracked road (signed Bassenthwaite Lake & Scarness). The parking for St Bega’s is just down here and then you will need to walk across a couple of fields and an avenue of ancient oaks to get to the church itself.
After checking out the church, where you’ll find Melvyn Bragg is a patron in recognition of his book ‘Credo’, retrace your steps back along the oak avenue until it starts to go uphill and then turn left across the pasture to a wood which is accessed via a stile. This wood is beautiful in Spring with primroses and bluebells. It’s a small wood, and once through, you cross another field and then into another wood beyond. The badger sets here are massive. In fact, my dog once had several hours of playtime underground checking out what was what.
Once through the second wood, go straight across two fields towards the large ash tree and through the kissing gate. Cross the farm track and into the field opposite. Head for the other side, towards the right hand corner (this is right of the woods) and there you will find a stile which accesses the small road just further down from where you originally parked.
Turn left and follow the road for about 200 yards. Take the public footpath which is signed to your left, down some wooden steps just before the bridge. If you’re lucky you might meet a horse in the field behind the fence here which is very friendly.
The path follows a little beck and there is an abundance of wildflowers depending on the time of year. You’ll cross a little bridge and eventually come to a gate which is some way left of the farm itself. This part of the walk is liable to be wet, so do wear strong shoes or boots. Go through the gate and then turn left towards Bassenthwaite Lake. This lovely stretch of water has a resident pair of swans all year, magnificent lily-pads in summer, and a variety of birds. The photo shows a pair of oyster catchers.
You then follow the lakeshore for about a mile and a half. It’s very pleasant and quiet, being away from the usual crowds in the more central lakes. If there has been a lot of rain, you may bless those stout shoes. If it is sunny, then take a towel and have a swim!
You will eventually come to some wooden lodges built on the shoreside. Before these is a landing stage. You’ll need to cross the strip of land with the ‘slipway’ and then through the gate at the far side. This brings you to a strip of woodland. Turn right up here keeping the wooden lodges to your left.
Now it depends on whether you want more footpaths or whether you want to get to the pub. I tend to lean towards the latter and so when you get to the end of the footpath (by the entrance drive to Bassenthwaite Lodges), I turn right along the road and then first left down another single track road - signed Bassenthwaite, helpfully. There are not many cars here and it is lovely with the hedgerows starting to bloom in the springtime.
After about a mile, you will reach the A591 again, go straight across the road here and follow the road opposite up to Bassenthwaite village itself. When you get to the village green, turn right through an avenue of lime trees and then follow the road past a small farm and the Sun Inn is just round the corner.
It is a lovely pub and serves good food and fine ales. It does get busy during the school holidays so you may need to book – the number is 017687 76439. It was originally built as a farmhouse in the 16th Century and has oak beams, squeaking floors and low ceilings. Dogs are also welcome at the pub and tend to love the open fires.
After you have been in a nice warm pub and consumed vast quantities of ale, pie and chips (or whatever else may have taken your fancy) you will either be feeling relaxed and sleepy or eager and ready to go. If it is the former, I would suggest retracing your route back to St Bega’s church as this is a flat walk. However, if you fancy working off some of those calories, then you can get back to the car via the lower slopes of Ullock Pike.
To do this, go back to the village green and then cut up left at the start of the green, (Back Green) towards Green Cottage and then left again past a few other cottages. At the end of the lane go through the gate, where the path is signed to Burthwaite, and walk to the opposite side of the field. Underneath the tall tree is another stile to go over and then you need to head towards the telegraph pole and the farm ahead. Before the farm, by the pole is a narrow gate on your right. Go through it, over the grass and to the single track road. On the road, turn left, go past the farm and carry on until you reach a wooded area on your right. Go over the stile beside a gate with a footpath sign and into the woods.
Opposite you is a small bridge over the river, go over this and up the hill beyond it. Then go left and follow the edge of the field to another gate. Cross the narrow road and head up the farm track directly opposite, signed ‘Hole House’. Here’s a fine view of Skiddaw directly in front of you. Follow the track past the front of Hole House, down before the barn, then right before the track goes down to the stream, up a path marked ‘Bridleway’. Follow this path up through an oak wood, keeping the fence on your right, to the gate at the top.
Through this, turn right onto another farm track, and walk 50 yards up to the farm. Over the stile, take the left hand track opposite the farm and follow it upwards keeping a fence and a line of larches on your left. When the track bears left through a gate, abandon it and instead turn 90 degrees right and head up through the saddle with ancient hawthorn trees on your right. As you breast the saddle in 100 yards a breath-taking view of Bassenthwaite Lake appears, along with a ladder stile and a gate. DON’T GO THROUGH OR OVER! Instead, turn hard left up a grassy track back towards Skiddaw. Follow this till you reach a gate and stile out onto the open fell.
Go through, then turn immediately right and follow the wall (on your right) up onto the brow of the hill above you. Say hello nicely to this wall, it will be on your right for the next mile or so. As you crest the hill fabulous views open up of Bassenthwaite Lake, Lord’s Seat, and off to the Cumbrian coast. Also, well off to the right, the wind farm at Bothel. If you’re not that attached to the wall, you can allow yourself to drift up the hill and follow any of the sheep tracks that contour round the end of the hill, or you can stick rigidly to your new friend. On the right day, you may well find paragliders taking off above you and soaring along Ullock Pike.
At the end of whatever path you’ve chosen you will come to the main footpath leading down, and you should make sure you’re back with your wall by the time it ends and becomes a fence surrounding a new plantation, and starts to descend rapidly. The path goes through a gate and into a mixed woodland via zig-zags that cross a forest track in 15 yards. Steeply down through another gate/stile right down to the A591.
Turn right and up through the grounds of the Ravenstone Hotel on their drive.
Afternoon tea on their terrace is very inviting, if you’ve shaken down lunch. At the end of their drive you need to cross the A591 and pick up the path directly opposite, signed St Bega’s church, by the bus stop. It leads off down and left, over a stile/gate, past three magnificent Douglas Firs into the field below Ravenstone Lodge. Aim for the kissing gate, and through it across the obvious path towards the copse. Over the stile, through the copse, and onto Kissing Gate Alley. There are four in 300 yards, so make sure you’re directly behind someone you fancy! The last one leads straight to your car. There are several holiday cottages in the lake district which are in the area of Bassenthwaite which make a great base to explore this part of the Lake District.
Saturday, 25 September 2010
Churches of the Lake District
The Lake District’s churches are nothing like those found in other parts of the country. It has always had a small, static population, and as a result, the churches are usually tiny, with small graveyards providing the resting-place for generations of the same families. Our county’s cathedral is a long way to the north in the border city of Carlisle.
Many of our village churches look alike. Made from sandstone or chunks of slate, sometimes grey-rendered, they have a low, barn-like shape, small leaded windows and short bell towers. A surprising number of them claim to have been founded by early medieval saints, including St. Bega, St. Patrick, and St. Kentigern.
These simple churches rarely have the elaborate decoration seen in later churches in other parts of the country. The compensation lies in stunning, carved stone crosses and tombstones from the Viking and earlier eras. Testament to the strength of Christianity in this remote part of the country from a very early time, they still stand sentinel in churchyards across the county.
Staying in self catering lake district cottages is the perfect way to start and explore these fantastic churches.
St. Kentigern was a 6th or 7th century monk, better known in Scotland as the St. Mungo of Glasgow Cathedral. Mungo is just a nickname, meaning ‘dearest friend’.
St. Kentigern's, Crosthwaite, near Keswick, was founded by Kentigern in 553AD, and there has been a church on the site ever since. The current building is mostly sixteenth century, and is probably unique in retaining its full set of sixteen consecration crosses, where the bishop sprinkled holy water as the new church was consecrated. Canon Rawnsley, a vicar of Crosthwaite and founder of the National Trust, is buried here, as is Robert Southey, the poet. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
St Kentigern’s, Caldbeck, is another church that claims to have been founded by the man himself in the 6th century. St. Mungo’s well, behind the church, is said to be the well where Kentigern baptised his first local recruits. The building is 12th century and later, and the churchyard has the graves of John Peel, the huntsman famed by song, and Mary Harrison, otherwise known as the Maid of Buttermere.
There are further St. Kentigern churches at Aspatria, Mungrisdale and Castle Sowerby.
St. Bega, or St. Bee, was also popular with early Christians in the Lakes. Tradition – if not history – has it that she was a 5th or 6th century Irish princess who became a hermit in Cumbria. The Priory Church of St. Mary and St. Bega, at St. Bee’s, is a 12th century church which once formed part of a Benedictine priory. The church has a fabulously decorated Norman west door and a display of medieval stone effigies, illustrating archers, swords, shears and a green man. The longevity of the site becomes clear in the graveyard, where there is a 9th century Cumbrian Celtic cross shaft with scrolled decoration and a 10th century Viking cross shaft. Opposite the church’s west door is an archway depicting a fight between St. Michael and a dragon. Cartmel Priory dominates this small village. Once part of a great Augustinian abbey founded in 1189, the church is the only part still standing. It has mixed Norman, Decorated and Perpendicular architecture, with fine renaissance screens, choir stalls and misericords.
Holme Cultram Abbey was founded for Cistercian monks in 1150, and, like Cartmel, retains the abbey church as the parish church. Sadly, this massive sandstone church suffered a huge fire in 2006. It is still under restoration, but the disaster has provided the opportunity for the West Cumbria Archaeological Society to excavate the grounds to identify the original cloisters and other features. Archaeological work continues this summer, thanks to a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund.
Cumbria lays claim to the smallest church in Britain, although this is disputed. The candidate is St. Olaf’s, at Wasdale Head. It is truly tiny, even by the standard of the many small sandstone churches in the area. Its antiquity is suggested by the roof beams, which are said to come from Viking ships. St. Olaf’s is surrounded by a splendid stand of yew trees in an otherwise bare valley landscape.
St. Catherine’s, near Boot in Eskdale, is splendidly situated against the backdrop of Scafell Pike. It has had much renovation, but it is in the traditional Lakes’ barn style, with tiny windows and a low bell tower. Its octagonal font is certainly very early, depicting St. Catherine’s wheel and some marigold decorations suggesting a late Roman or early Christian origin. A nearby well has been dated to the 6th century, and it is believed to be the site of early baptisms.
St. Paul’s at Irton is another ancient site. There has been a church here since a cross was erected in the churchyard in the 9th century. The current Victorian building is Grade 1 listed, and has some remarkable William Morris windows.
St. Mary’s, Gosforth, is best known for the Norse cross in the graveyard. The cross is 14ft high, dates to around 940AD, and shows the crucifixion, stories from Norse myth, and Loki, a Norse devil. There are also two 10th century hogback tombstones in the church, shaped like Viking houses of the dead, complete with carved battle scenes.
St. Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, was once shipwrecked on Duddon Sands on the Cumbrian coast. From here, he made his way across the county, converting the people as he went. He baptised at St. Patrick’s Well, Patterdale, and both the village and local church were named after him. The current St. Patrick’s church, Patterdale is nineteenth century, and was designed by Anthony Salvin. There is an interesting altar here, dedicated to people who have lost their lives in air crashes on the fells.
There are many churches in the Lakes dedicated to St. Bridget or St. Bride, and, like St. Bega and St. Patrick, entire villages are named after her.
St. Bridget’s, Bridekirk was heavily restored in the Victorian era, but still has two Norman doorways. It has a splendid 12th century font depicting the stonemason at work, the baptism of Christ, Adam and Eve, and strange Norse beasts and runes.
St. Bridget’s Kirkbride is another early Christian site. The current building is mostly Saxon and Norman, with some stone seemingly sourced from the ruins of a nearby Roman camp.
St. Bridget’s in Beckermet is a little way out of the modern village (which now has another church, St. John’s, in the centre of the village). Another ancient site, St.
Bridget’s has two pre-Norman cross shafts outside, carved with scrolls and runes.
St. Bridget’s in Brigham was originally part of a 13th century nunnery, but the Viking crosses inside the church suggest earlier foundation, like our other St. Bridget’s churches. The tower is early 13th century and the rest 14th century, with some splendid 14th century stained glass. St. Bridget’s is the site of the tomb of Fletcher Christian, the Bounty mutineer.
St. Andrew is also a popular saint in Cumbria. St. Andrew’s, Dacre, is a site mentioned by Bede himself. It has a Norse cross shaft, and another, believed to be even earlier in date, showing Adam and Eve and the sacrifice of Isaac. Some floor stones are 10th century, and show a battle between good and evil. Dacre church is best known for its ‘bears’ – four bear-like statues in the churchyard. They are certainly very old, but it’s not clear how old and they may not even be bears!
St. Andrew’s, Greystoke, is a 13th/14th-century church. Its huge bell tower looks very much like the peel tower of a castle, and that’s no coincidence. During the time of the Border Reivers, the villagers used the tower as a refuge. Some splendid medieval stained glass here had a narrow escape from Cromwellian raiders in the seventeenth century. On hearing of their advance, the locals removed the glass and buried it. Two centuries later, it was unearthed and re-installed in the church. St. Andrew’s has two interesting sculptures. One, of the Madonna and Child, was carved with a penknife by German prisoners of war. The other, of the crucifixion, is by the modern sculptor, Josefina de Vasconcellos.
St. Andrew’s, Penrith, is a departure from Cumbria’s many medieval churches. Although the tower dates to the 13th century, the main part was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Christopher Wren, in 1720. Its internal decoration is stunning and surprising, with matt black pillars edged with gold, and strong highlights in Georgian blues and maroons. St. Andrew’s churchyard is well known for its so-called, ‘Giant’s Grave’. Some sources believe is to be the grave of the 10th century Cumbrian king, Owen Caesarius; the four side pieces are certainly Viking hogback stones. There are also two Norse crosses, one 14ft high.
Kirkby Stephen Church, which is not dedicated to St. Stephen, as many sources suggest, is known as ‘the cathedral of the Dales’ owing to its large size. It has some Saxon and Norman stones, but is best known for its ‘Loki stone’, an 8th century carving of a chained Norse devil.
St. Michael’s and All Angels, Muncaster, in the grounds of Muncaster Castle, is another departure from the norm. It’s Grade 1 listed, with 12th century parts and a north transept designed by Anthony Salvin. It has a rare ‘Doom’ window showing St. Michael and Christ at the Last Judgement and side windows depicting the archangels, Michael, Raphael, Uriel and Gabriel. St. Michael’s also has a Viking cross shaft depicting Norse myths.
Holy Trinity church, Grange-in-Borrowdale, surprises in that it is not as old as it looks. Built only in the nineteenth century, Holy Trinity has striking zigzag decoration imitating the Norman ‘dogtooth’ style, both inside and out.
St. Oswald’s, Grasmere, is always eclipsed by the graves of William Wordsworth and his family, which draw huge crowds all year round. St. Oswald’s is, however, another church with a remarkable history going back to its foundation by St. Oswald in the 7th century. The church hosts a popular rushbearing festival – where rushes are brought in to carpet the church – on 5th August each year.
St. Michael’s, Lamplugh, was designed by the famous 19th century church architect, William Butterfield, best known for Keble College chapel at Oxford. The church gained a lot of news coverage a few years ago, when the Carlisle record office uncovered some unusual causes of death in the 17th century parish records. Mrs Lamplugh’s cordial was responsible for two; some fell foul of a will o’ the wisp, the squire’s dog killed two vagrants; some were ‘frighted by fairies’ and three were drowned on a charge of witchcraft.
There are atmospheric church ruins worth visiting at Calder Abbey, near Calder Bridge, and Lanercost Priory, near Brampton. Perhaps the most enigmatic of them all is the church that – allegedly – appears only during hot summers. Mardale Church, in the village of Mardale Green, was submerged as the waters of Haweswater reservoir rose in 1937. It’s certainly the case that ruined village walls have re-appeared in dry summers, but the church bell tower? Good question. One some dark nights, travellers have reported hearing the bells of the old church, ringing out across the drowned valley.
To stay in self catering lake district cottages and start exploring these wonderful churches just follow the link.
Many of our village churches look alike. Made from sandstone or chunks of slate, sometimes grey-rendered, they have a low, barn-like shape, small leaded windows and short bell towers. A surprising number of them claim to have been founded by early medieval saints, including St. Bega, St. Patrick, and St. Kentigern.
These simple churches rarely have the elaborate decoration seen in later churches in other parts of the country. The compensation lies in stunning, carved stone crosses and tombstones from the Viking and earlier eras. Testament to the strength of Christianity in this remote part of the country from a very early time, they still stand sentinel in churchyards across the county.
Staying in self catering lake district cottages is the perfect way to start and explore these fantastic churches.
St. Kentigern was a 6th or 7th century monk, better known in Scotland as the St. Mungo of Glasgow Cathedral. Mungo is just a nickname, meaning ‘dearest friend’.
St. Kentigern's, Crosthwaite, near Keswick, was founded by Kentigern in 553AD, and there has been a church on the site ever since. The current building is mostly sixteenth century, and is probably unique in retaining its full set of sixteen consecration crosses, where the bishop sprinkled holy water as the new church was consecrated. Canon Rawnsley, a vicar of Crosthwaite and founder of the National Trust, is buried here, as is Robert Southey, the poet. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
St Kentigern’s, Caldbeck, is another church that claims to have been founded by the man himself in the 6th century. St. Mungo’s well, behind the church, is said to be the well where Kentigern baptised his first local recruits. The building is 12th century and later, and the churchyard has the graves of John Peel, the huntsman famed by song, and Mary Harrison, otherwise known as the Maid of Buttermere.
There are further St. Kentigern churches at Aspatria, Mungrisdale and Castle Sowerby.
St. Bega, or St. Bee, was also popular with early Christians in the Lakes. Tradition – if not history – has it that she was a 5th or 6th century Irish princess who became a hermit in Cumbria. The Priory Church of St. Mary and St. Bega, at St. Bee’s, is a 12th century church which once formed part of a Benedictine priory. The church has a fabulously decorated Norman west door and a display of medieval stone effigies, illustrating archers, swords, shears and a green man. The longevity of the site becomes clear in the graveyard, where there is a 9th century Cumbrian Celtic cross shaft with scrolled decoration and a 10th century Viking cross shaft. Opposite the church’s west door is an archway depicting a fight between St. Michael and a dragon. Cartmel Priory dominates this small village. Once part of a great Augustinian abbey founded in 1189, the church is the only part still standing. It has mixed Norman, Decorated and Perpendicular architecture, with fine renaissance screens, choir stalls and misericords.
Holme Cultram Abbey was founded for Cistercian monks in 1150, and, like Cartmel, retains the abbey church as the parish church. Sadly, this massive sandstone church suffered a huge fire in 2006. It is still under restoration, but the disaster has provided the opportunity for the West Cumbria Archaeological Society to excavate the grounds to identify the original cloisters and other features. Archaeological work continues this summer, thanks to a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund.
Cumbria lays claim to the smallest church in Britain, although this is disputed. The candidate is St. Olaf’s, at Wasdale Head. It is truly tiny, even by the standard of the many small sandstone churches in the area. Its antiquity is suggested by the roof beams, which are said to come from Viking ships. St. Olaf’s is surrounded by a splendid stand of yew trees in an otherwise bare valley landscape.
St. Catherine’s, near Boot in Eskdale, is splendidly situated against the backdrop of Scafell Pike. It has had much renovation, but it is in the traditional Lakes’ barn style, with tiny windows and a low bell tower. Its octagonal font is certainly very early, depicting St. Catherine’s wheel and some marigold decorations suggesting a late Roman or early Christian origin. A nearby well has been dated to the 6th century, and it is believed to be the site of early baptisms.
St. Paul’s at Irton is another ancient site. There has been a church here since a cross was erected in the churchyard in the 9th century. The current Victorian building is Grade 1 listed, and has some remarkable William Morris windows.
St. Mary’s, Gosforth, is best known for the Norse cross in the graveyard. The cross is 14ft high, dates to around 940AD, and shows the crucifixion, stories from Norse myth, and Loki, a Norse devil. There are also two 10th century hogback tombstones in the church, shaped like Viking houses of the dead, complete with carved battle scenes.
St. Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland, was once shipwrecked on Duddon Sands on the Cumbrian coast. From here, he made his way across the county, converting the people as he went. He baptised at St. Patrick’s Well, Patterdale, and both the village and local church were named after him. The current St. Patrick’s church, Patterdale is nineteenth century, and was designed by Anthony Salvin. There is an interesting altar here, dedicated to people who have lost their lives in air crashes on the fells.
There are many churches in the Lakes dedicated to St. Bridget or St. Bride, and, like St. Bega and St. Patrick, entire villages are named after her.
St. Bridget’s, Bridekirk was heavily restored in the Victorian era, but still has two Norman doorways. It has a splendid 12th century font depicting the stonemason at work, the baptism of Christ, Adam and Eve, and strange Norse beasts and runes.
St. Bridget’s Kirkbride is another early Christian site. The current building is mostly Saxon and Norman, with some stone seemingly sourced from the ruins of a nearby Roman camp.
St. Bridget’s in Beckermet is a little way out of the modern village (which now has another church, St. John’s, in the centre of the village). Another ancient site, St.
Bridget’s has two pre-Norman cross shafts outside, carved with scrolls and runes.
St. Bridget’s in Brigham was originally part of a 13th century nunnery, but the Viking crosses inside the church suggest earlier foundation, like our other St. Bridget’s churches. The tower is early 13th century and the rest 14th century, with some splendid 14th century stained glass. St. Bridget’s is the site of the tomb of Fletcher Christian, the Bounty mutineer.
St. Andrew is also a popular saint in Cumbria. St. Andrew’s, Dacre, is a site mentioned by Bede himself. It has a Norse cross shaft, and another, believed to be even earlier in date, showing Adam and Eve and the sacrifice of Isaac. Some floor stones are 10th century, and show a battle between good and evil. Dacre church is best known for its ‘bears’ – four bear-like statues in the churchyard. They are certainly very old, but it’s not clear how old and they may not even be bears!
St. Andrew’s, Greystoke, is a 13th/14th-century church. Its huge bell tower looks very much like the peel tower of a castle, and that’s no coincidence. During the time of the Border Reivers, the villagers used the tower as a refuge. Some splendid medieval stained glass here had a narrow escape from Cromwellian raiders in the seventeenth century. On hearing of their advance, the locals removed the glass and buried it. Two centuries later, it was unearthed and re-installed in the church. St. Andrew’s has two interesting sculptures. One, of the Madonna and Child, was carved with a penknife by German prisoners of war. The other, of the crucifixion, is by the modern sculptor, Josefina de Vasconcellos.
St. Andrew’s, Penrith, is a departure from Cumbria’s many medieval churches. Although the tower dates to the 13th century, the main part was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Christopher Wren, in 1720. Its internal decoration is stunning and surprising, with matt black pillars edged with gold, and strong highlights in Georgian blues and maroons. St. Andrew’s churchyard is well known for its so-called, ‘Giant’s Grave’. Some sources believe is to be the grave of the 10th century Cumbrian king, Owen Caesarius; the four side pieces are certainly Viking hogback stones. There are also two Norse crosses, one 14ft high.
Kirkby Stephen Church, which is not dedicated to St. Stephen, as many sources suggest, is known as ‘the cathedral of the Dales’ owing to its large size. It has some Saxon and Norman stones, but is best known for its ‘Loki stone’, an 8th century carving of a chained Norse devil.
St. Michael’s and All Angels, Muncaster, in the grounds of Muncaster Castle, is another departure from the norm. It’s Grade 1 listed, with 12th century parts and a north transept designed by Anthony Salvin. It has a rare ‘Doom’ window showing St. Michael and Christ at the Last Judgement and side windows depicting the archangels, Michael, Raphael, Uriel and Gabriel. St. Michael’s also has a Viking cross shaft depicting Norse myths.
Holy Trinity church, Grange-in-Borrowdale, surprises in that it is not as old as it looks. Built only in the nineteenth century, Holy Trinity has striking zigzag decoration imitating the Norman ‘dogtooth’ style, both inside and out.
St. Oswald’s, Grasmere, is always eclipsed by the graves of William Wordsworth and his family, which draw huge crowds all year round. St. Oswald’s is, however, another church with a remarkable history going back to its foundation by St. Oswald in the 7th century. The church hosts a popular rushbearing festival – where rushes are brought in to carpet the church – on 5th August each year.
St. Michael’s, Lamplugh, was designed by the famous 19th century church architect, William Butterfield, best known for Keble College chapel at Oxford. The church gained a lot of news coverage a few years ago, when the Carlisle record office uncovered some unusual causes of death in the 17th century parish records. Mrs Lamplugh’s cordial was responsible for two; some fell foul of a will o’ the wisp, the squire’s dog killed two vagrants; some were ‘frighted by fairies’ and three were drowned on a charge of witchcraft.
There are atmospheric church ruins worth visiting at Calder Abbey, near Calder Bridge, and Lanercost Priory, near Brampton. Perhaps the most enigmatic of them all is the church that – allegedly – appears only during hot summers. Mardale Church, in the village of Mardale Green, was submerged as the waters of Haweswater reservoir rose in 1937. It’s certainly the case that ruined village walls have re-appeared in dry summers, but the church bell tower? Good question. One some dark nights, travellers have reported hearing the bells of the old church, ringing out across the drowned valley.
To stay in self catering lake district cottages and start exploring these wonderful churches just follow the link.
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