Eskdale is one of the most beautiful valleys in the Lake District. Situated in the quieter side of the National Park, it has a peaceful tranquillity that makes it especially appealing to those who want to avoid the crowds. Amid all this tranquillity are several fantastic pubs serving great food and some fine ales. There are several Lake District cottages in the area which make a great base from which to explore Eskdale and what better way to finish the day of adventure off than to visit one of these fine establishments.
As you come to the main village, Eskdale Green from the south, you come to The King George IV. Under new management the pub has regained its status as one of the main focal points of the valley. It’s a welcoming pub with open fire, oak ceilings and slate floors. There is a sunny patio outside and pets are welcome both in and out.
The George IV has a self catering Apartment called the King George Apartment, which sleeps 8 and a luxury self contained caravan for 4/6 called The Cabin.
At the other end of Eskdale Green is The Bower House Inn. Here there is a lovely beer garden with a small wood and a stream at one end, plus a play area for children. The building itself has a lot of character being a 17th Century coaching inn. Nowadays it combines traditional Lake District hospitality with modern comforts such as wifi and regular events. The food is locally sourced and the ales are locally brewed.
Arriving in Eskdale over Hardknott Pass, the first pub you come to is The Woolpack Inn (and after a trip over the steepest pass in England, you will be glad of a pint or two to bring yourself back to reality). This pub was taken over by Harry & Paddington Berger in 2010 and they have worked wonders with it. The surrounding scenery is stunning, the ale is real stuff and the food is good and honest, made from local ingredients wherever possible. There is a large beer garden and your dog is more than welcome.
Heading down the valley you will then come to Boot which is a tiny hamlet with two pubs – The Boot Inn and the Brook House. Both are just a five minute walk down the road from the Ravenglass and Eskdale steam railway. The Brook House is classic. It is family owned and all the food is home made on site (and available all day). Their real ales include Cumbrian specials such as Hawkshead Bitter, Jennings, Barngates and Yates. And if ale isn’t enough to tempt you there, they also serve over 150 malt whiskeys.
The Boot Inn is further up the road and has a great children’s play area at the bottom of the beer garden. Inside there are darts and pool and the pub prides itself on being a lively pub with a good atmosphere.
Between them the Woolpack Inn, Brook House Inn and Boot Inn host a beer festival in June. With over 70 beers from nearly 70 breweries, each pub has a different choice. The 5-10 minute walk between the pubs can provide welcome fresh air, and a chance to plan the next pint!
Just outside of the valley, going towards Wasdale is The Santon Bridge Inn. Sunday lunches are a speciality here but the pub is great any time of the week with its open fire, real ale and country inn atmosphere. Wifi is available here, as well as a friendly smile from Humphrey who works behind the bar! If you are visiting in November, then don’t miss the World’s Biggest Liar Competition held at the Santon Bridge Inn. Staying at cottages in the Lake District is a great way to explore the lakes and all it has to offer.
Saturday, 20 November 2010
Wednesday, 17 November 2010
Animal Magic in the Lake District
The Lake District has an amazing variety of animals and birds. Creatures that you never, or rarely, see anywhere else in the country are readily spotted here, as well as farm animals in abundance. Wild animals, such as deer, fell ponies, stoats and red squirrels aren’t everywhere, but if you go to the right places, quietly enough and often enough, you will spot them. There are few sweeter sights than a family of white-flashed stoats running in their wiggling, spiralling way across the road, or red squirrels hopping from tree to tree with a tiny red squirrel kitten behind them.
The red squirrel is extinct in most parts of the UK, but they are still at home across much of Cumbria. You may spot red squirrels in any number of lightly wooded areas, but you are more likely to see them at the registered red squirrel parks – Whinfell Forest, near Penrith; Greystoke Forest, between Penrith and Keswick; Whinlatter Forest, west of Keswick; Thirlmere and Mallerstang, near Kirkby Stephen. All of these parks offer lovely woodland walks and great opportunities for a picnic.
There are several holiday cottages in the Lake District which make an ideal base to visit some of these great family day attractions.
Ospreys were once native to much of the UK, but they became extinct in England in 1840 and Scotland in 1916. In 1954 they reappeared in Scotland, and by the 1990s, the occasional pair visited the Lakes in the summer. In 2001, a breeding pair set up home in Dodd Wood, above Bassenthwaite Lake; you may well spot them swooping in the skies as you pass, or you can view the ospreys when they are in their nest from April to August at one of two viewing points in Dodd Wood. There is also an exhibition on the ospreys at the Whinlatter Forest Visitor Centre, and you can sneak a peek online at the webcam on the Osprey Watch website. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
You can see other birds of prey at the Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre, at Lowther, near Penrith. They have a large collection of hawks, eagles, falcons and owls and host regular flying demonstrations. There’s also a tea room on site.
In the central Lakes is the Predator Experience, near Windermere. Here, you can learn to handle falcons, golden eagles and owls, and take a guided woodland walk to see all types of hawk in their natural habitat. They have other predators, too - take your chance with snakes and tarantulas!
The World Owl Centre is home to the World Owl Trust. Based in the grounds of Muncaster Castle, on the west coast, this is the place to see forty different types of owl from sparrow-sized pigmy owls to enormous eagle owls. There is a ‘Meet the Birds’ talk, with feathered friends, every day at 2.30pm between 21st March and 31st October.
You can enjoy the company of a much stranger bird at Eden Ostrich World, at Langwathby, near Penrith. Here you can learn all about ostriches, visit them, and see eggs hatch (at the right time of year, of course). There is also a working farm on site, with rare breed pigs, cows and deer. There’s an enjoyable riverside walk and – wait for it - sheep milking. There’s also a tea room and a shop. Very popular with small children.
The Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre, near Cockermouth, is a mecca for all things sheep. Here you can see nineteen different breeds of sheep. They host sheep shearing and sheepdog competitions every year, and you can buy all sorts of sheep-related books and gifts.
Ewe Close Farm, near Wigton is a lowland hill farm and dairy specialising in rare breed pigs, cows and goats. Here you can see new animals being bottle-fed, and goat milking. You can take a pony ride, stroke a donkey, go out on a tractor, look for eggs and explore the woods.
Holme Open Farm, near Sedbergh, is thoroughly geared up for small children. They have sheep, pigs, goats, ducks, kittens and a pony, a picnic area and children’s play area with swings and slides.
These days, it’s not unusual to see a couple of alpaca in a field full of sheep. I have it on good authority that they are quite fond of sheep, and tend to try to stop them escaping their field… presumably sheep look like smaller, cuter and fluffier versions of alpaca in their eyes. You can check this out for yourself at the Alpaca Centre, at Stainton, near Ullswater.
The South Lakes Wild Animal Park, near Dalton-in-Furness, is closer in style to a conventional zoo, working towards the conservation of some of the rarest animals in the world. The 17-acre site is home to rare tigers, lemurs, wallabies, kangaroos, giraffes, lions, rhinos, penguins, birds of prey and waterfowl.
Trotter’s World of Animals, near Bassenthwaite, is a popular wildlife park with llamas, lemurs, wild cats, vultures, eagles, snakes, zebras, bison, red deer, wallabies, highland cattle, rabbits and guinea pigs. Trotter’s is a 25-acre site, with falconry displays, animal feeding, pony rides and tractor trips. There’s also a children’s adventure playground, picnic area, restaurant and shop.
The Lake District Coast Aquarium, at Maryport, is a great place to view all manner of sea creatures. There are native marine and freshwater fish, conger eels, small sharks, octopuses, crabs, cuttlefish, rays and starfish, as well as educational displays and an audio-visual centre.
Another great fishy place is the Lakes Aquarium, near Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere. Here, you can see the creatures that inhabit the lakes of the world, from Asia, the Americas and Africa and back home again to Windermere. There is a restaurant and gift shop.
Beyond all the parks and attractions, there’s no escaping Cumbria’s animal magic. Right now, the fields are chock-full with new lambs. Definitely the place to be for any animal lover.
Please note that some animal attractions, especially working farms, do not accept dogs and opening hours vary considerably throughout the year, so please check before you go. There are plenty of Lake District cottages which are within touching distance of these fantastic days out.
The red squirrel is extinct in most parts of the UK, but they are still at home across much of Cumbria. You may spot red squirrels in any number of lightly wooded areas, but you are more likely to see them at the registered red squirrel parks – Whinfell Forest, near Penrith; Greystoke Forest, between Penrith and Keswick; Whinlatter Forest, west of Keswick; Thirlmere and Mallerstang, near Kirkby Stephen. All of these parks offer lovely woodland walks and great opportunities for a picnic.
There are several holiday cottages in the Lake District which make an ideal base to visit some of these great family day attractions.
Ospreys were once native to much of the UK, but they became extinct in England in 1840 and Scotland in 1916. In 1954 they reappeared in Scotland, and by the 1990s, the occasional pair visited the Lakes in the summer. In 2001, a breeding pair set up home in Dodd Wood, above Bassenthwaite Lake; you may well spot them swooping in the skies as you pass, or you can view the ospreys when they are in their nest from April to August at one of two viewing points in Dodd Wood. There is also an exhibition on the ospreys at the Whinlatter Forest Visitor Centre, and you can sneak a peek online at the webcam on the Osprey Watch website. There are plenty of Keswick cottages in the area as an added bonus.
You can see other birds of prey at the Lakeland Bird of Prey Centre, at Lowther, near Penrith. They have a large collection of hawks, eagles, falcons and owls and host regular flying demonstrations. There’s also a tea room on site.
In the central Lakes is the Predator Experience, near Windermere. Here, you can learn to handle falcons, golden eagles and owls, and take a guided woodland walk to see all types of hawk in their natural habitat. They have other predators, too - take your chance with snakes and tarantulas!
The World Owl Centre is home to the World Owl Trust. Based in the grounds of Muncaster Castle, on the west coast, this is the place to see forty different types of owl from sparrow-sized pigmy owls to enormous eagle owls. There is a ‘Meet the Birds’ talk, with feathered friends, every day at 2.30pm between 21st March and 31st October.
You can enjoy the company of a much stranger bird at Eden Ostrich World, at Langwathby, near Penrith. Here you can learn all about ostriches, visit them, and see eggs hatch (at the right time of year, of course). There is also a working farm on site, with rare breed pigs, cows and deer. There’s an enjoyable riverside walk and – wait for it - sheep milking. There’s also a tea room and a shop. Very popular with small children.
The Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre, near Cockermouth, is a mecca for all things sheep. Here you can see nineteen different breeds of sheep. They host sheep shearing and sheepdog competitions every year, and you can buy all sorts of sheep-related books and gifts.
Ewe Close Farm, near Wigton is a lowland hill farm and dairy specialising in rare breed pigs, cows and goats. Here you can see new animals being bottle-fed, and goat milking. You can take a pony ride, stroke a donkey, go out on a tractor, look for eggs and explore the woods.
Holme Open Farm, near Sedbergh, is thoroughly geared up for small children. They have sheep, pigs, goats, ducks, kittens and a pony, a picnic area and children’s play area with swings and slides.
These days, it’s not unusual to see a couple of alpaca in a field full of sheep. I have it on good authority that they are quite fond of sheep, and tend to try to stop them escaping their field… presumably sheep look like smaller, cuter and fluffier versions of alpaca in their eyes. You can check this out for yourself at the Alpaca Centre, at Stainton, near Ullswater.
The South Lakes Wild Animal Park, near Dalton-in-Furness, is closer in style to a conventional zoo, working towards the conservation of some of the rarest animals in the world. The 17-acre site is home to rare tigers, lemurs, wallabies, kangaroos, giraffes, lions, rhinos, penguins, birds of prey and waterfowl.
Trotter’s World of Animals, near Bassenthwaite, is a popular wildlife park with llamas, lemurs, wild cats, vultures, eagles, snakes, zebras, bison, red deer, wallabies, highland cattle, rabbits and guinea pigs. Trotter’s is a 25-acre site, with falconry displays, animal feeding, pony rides and tractor trips. There’s also a children’s adventure playground, picnic area, restaurant and shop.
The Lake District Coast Aquarium, at Maryport, is a great place to view all manner of sea creatures. There are native marine and freshwater fish, conger eels, small sharks, octopuses, crabs, cuttlefish, rays and starfish, as well as educational displays and an audio-visual centre.
Another great fishy place is the Lakes Aquarium, near Newby Bridge, at the foot of Windermere. Here, you can see the creatures that inhabit the lakes of the world, from Asia, the Americas and Africa and back home again to Windermere. There is a restaurant and gift shop.
Beyond all the parks and attractions, there’s no escaping Cumbria’s animal magic. Right now, the fields are chock-full with new lambs. Definitely the place to be for any animal lover.
Please note that some animal attractions, especially working farms, do not accept dogs and opening hours vary considerably throughout the year, so please check before you go. There are plenty of Lake District cottages which are within touching distance of these fantastic days out.
Saturday, 13 November 2010
Muncaster Castle
Muncaster Castle is one of the biggest attractions in the South Western Lake District and is a great day out in a stunning location, which is fascinating for adults and offers loads to do for children. It’s within easy reach of several self catering lake district cottages which would make a great base for visiting the castle.
The Castle is in a wonderful setting with amazing views of Scafell and the Lakeland fells to the east and south and a stunning vista out to the west, where the river Esk meets the sea at Ravenglass.
The main estate is a 77 acre paradise of history and wonder with beautiful woodland gardens, fabulous views and amazing wildlife. Not only can you enjoy the 200 owls on display in the World Owl Centre, if you're lucky, you may even spot the odd deer or red squirrel that are visit the edges of the gardens.
Muncaster Castle is a site of tremendous historic interest. The original foundations of the building itself date back as far as 79AD - construction of the castle that you see today was started in 1258. As you can imagine with a castle in such an incredible position on the very edges of the country, it is steeped in history, with tales of kings and queens of murder and intrigue and ghostly presences everywhere.
The gardens and woodland walks are breathtaking, especially in spring and early summer. The bluebell woods are an absolutely essential for anyone staying at one of our holiday cottages in the Lake District in mid to late May and the Rhodedendrons follow on from that at the start of June and are equally stunning. The Himalayan Gardens feature many rhododendron specimens that are rarely seen in the West and are Europe's oldest leading collection.
There are 2 children’s play areas and several picnic areas around the grounds as well as large grass areas to run around and endless woodland and gardens to explore. The Max the Meadow Vole Maze is brilliant for over 5’s. It shows what the world looks like to a Meadow Vole, as you scurry around in a super-sized version of a Meadow habitat – it’s great fun and educational as well!
Muncaster Castle's World Owl Centre has one of the largest collections of these thrilling birds of prey in existence. The centre is home to a diverse range - from bizarre fish owls to diminutive pygmy owls which are not much bigger than a sparrow and has more than 40 different types of these magnificent Owls on display for you to wonder and enjoy.
The World Owl Centre is open every day and entry is included in your Gardens ticket.
Every afternoon (Easter to October half-term) a talk is given on the amazing owls and other birds of prey at the Centre, which is a great opportunity to see the birds at close quarters, watch them in flight (weather permitting) and take photographs.
You can also watch the wild herons feeding during "Heron Happy Hour".
At certain times of year you can also enjoy the spectacular ‘Darkest Muncaster’ experience; lights, music, sound and special effects transforms Muncaster's famous Gardens and Castle into an enchanting mystical experience after dark, guaranteed to amaze and entertain the entire family. This is an experience not to be missed and is usually included in the day ticket price! (valid on day of purchase)
There is also a cafe on site, which serves meals and infamous home-made cakes.
A bit more history:
In 1464 Sir John Pennington gave shelter to Henry VI, wandering after the Battle of Hexham. Many years later, in 1783, John, Lord Muncaster erected the tower known as Chapels to commemorate the place where the fugitive King was supposed to have been found by the shepherds. The legend tells how Holy King Harry on his departure left his drinking bowl behind in gratitude, saying that as long as it should remain quite whole and unbroken the Penningtons would live and thrive in the place. Today the bowl is still intact and is known as the Luck of Muncaster.
Muncaster Castle has a reputation for being one of the most haunted houses in England. Amongst the ghost stories are that of the ghost of Henry VI (who was sheltered at Muncaster after his defeat at the battle of Hexham) and the head carrying ghost of an apprentice carpenter who was decapitated whilst sleeping in the old stable block by jester Thomas Skelton (Tom The Fool) at the orders of Sir Ferdinand Pennington because of his love affair with his daughter Helwise. There were even tales that a lion shot by the last Lord Muncaster in Kenya, and whose skull is kept in the castle, was sometimes heard prowling (& gently growling) around at nightfall.
A bit more information about the Gardens:
The terrace, with its view of Eskdale, is the finest man-made garden structure at Muncaster. As well as extending and remodelling the Castle in the early 1780's, the first Lord Muncaster carried out huge improvements to the gardens. He planted hundreds of thousands of trees, opened up many new walks through the gardens and built the grand entrance gates and laid out the half mile long terrace with its summer houses which were renovated in 1890 and 1999.
The alternating yew pillars and box hedge planted in the 19th Century provide protection from the chill winds which can blow from the high fells. This allows many plants to flourish here including some Mediterranean species which elsewhere in the UK would require a glass house in winter. There is a fine collection of magnolias, camellias, and maples, as well as hydrangeas and a large collection of unusual trees.
The terrace links to Church Wood, home to many winter flowering rhododendrons and to a colourful collection of Japanese maples which are at their best in summer.
The Sino Himalayan Gardens are a particularly fabulous part of the grounds and are a wonderful place to soak everything in in peace and tranquillity. Standing at almost sea level in the Himalayan gardens of Muncaster is startlingly similar to being 3350 metres (11,000ft) high in the Himalayan foothills. Here plants from all over the world nestle in the wild splendour of over 70 acres of gardens with the romantic backdrop of the glorious Lakeland Fells.
Location
If you are staying in one of several cottages in the lake district near the Eskdale and Wasdale area, then Muncaster Castle really couldn't be more handy - it is located in the heart of the Western Lake District and, uniquely, is in the only coastal village of the Lake District National Park, Ravenglass.
The castle is well signposted on the A595, just to the east of Ravenglass. The postcode is CA18 1RD.
Parking is free and for visitors with disability/mobility concerns, there is a car park in the heart of the estate which can be accessed via Church Lane. This is approximately 1/2 mile around the corner from the main car park (heading south).
Walking from Ravenglass to Muncaster: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Muncaster Castle along Muncaster Fell from any number of Lake District cottages in Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station and then hike out to Muncaster and have a leisurely trip back on the Ravenglass and Eskdale miniature steam railway.
Reception at the castle is open 8.30am - 6pm Monday to Friday, 9am - 5pm Saturday and Sunday and the information office number is: 01229 717 614.
The Castle is in a wonderful setting with amazing views of Scafell and the Lakeland fells to the east and south and a stunning vista out to the west, where the river Esk meets the sea at Ravenglass.
The main estate is a 77 acre paradise of history and wonder with beautiful woodland gardens, fabulous views and amazing wildlife. Not only can you enjoy the 200 owls on display in the World Owl Centre, if you're lucky, you may even spot the odd deer or red squirrel that are visit the edges of the gardens.
Muncaster Castle is a site of tremendous historic interest. The original foundations of the building itself date back as far as 79AD - construction of the castle that you see today was started in 1258. As you can imagine with a castle in such an incredible position on the very edges of the country, it is steeped in history, with tales of kings and queens of murder and intrigue and ghostly presences everywhere.
The gardens and woodland walks are breathtaking, especially in spring and early summer. The bluebell woods are an absolutely essential for anyone staying at one of our holiday cottages in the Lake District in mid to late May and the Rhodedendrons follow on from that at the start of June and are equally stunning. The Himalayan Gardens feature many rhododendron specimens that are rarely seen in the West and are Europe's oldest leading collection.
There are 2 children’s play areas and several picnic areas around the grounds as well as large grass areas to run around and endless woodland and gardens to explore. The Max the Meadow Vole Maze is brilliant for over 5’s. It shows what the world looks like to a Meadow Vole, as you scurry around in a super-sized version of a Meadow habitat – it’s great fun and educational as well!
Muncaster Castle's World Owl Centre has one of the largest collections of these thrilling birds of prey in existence. The centre is home to a diverse range - from bizarre fish owls to diminutive pygmy owls which are not much bigger than a sparrow and has more than 40 different types of these magnificent Owls on display for you to wonder and enjoy.
The World Owl Centre is open every day and entry is included in your Gardens ticket.
Every afternoon (Easter to October half-term) a talk is given on the amazing owls and other birds of prey at the Centre, which is a great opportunity to see the birds at close quarters, watch them in flight (weather permitting) and take photographs.
You can also watch the wild herons feeding during "Heron Happy Hour".
At certain times of year you can also enjoy the spectacular ‘Darkest Muncaster’ experience; lights, music, sound and special effects transforms Muncaster's famous Gardens and Castle into an enchanting mystical experience after dark, guaranteed to amaze and entertain the entire family. This is an experience not to be missed and is usually included in the day ticket price! (valid on day of purchase)
There is also a cafe on site, which serves meals and infamous home-made cakes.
A bit more history:
In 1464 Sir John Pennington gave shelter to Henry VI, wandering after the Battle of Hexham. Many years later, in 1783, John, Lord Muncaster erected the tower known as Chapels to commemorate the place where the fugitive King was supposed to have been found by the shepherds. The legend tells how Holy King Harry on his departure left his drinking bowl behind in gratitude, saying that as long as it should remain quite whole and unbroken the Penningtons would live and thrive in the place. Today the bowl is still intact and is known as the Luck of Muncaster.
Muncaster Castle has a reputation for being one of the most haunted houses in England. Amongst the ghost stories are that of the ghost of Henry VI (who was sheltered at Muncaster after his defeat at the battle of Hexham) and the head carrying ghost of an apprentice carpenter who was decapitated whilst sleeping in the old stable block by jester Thomas Skelton (Tom The Fool) at the orders of Sir Ferdinand Pennington because of his love affair with his daughter Helwise. There were even tales that a lion shot by the last Lord Muncaster in Kenya, and whose skull is kept in the castle, was sometimes heard prowling (& gently growling) around at nightfall.
A bit more information about the Gardens:
The terrace, with its view of Eskdale, is the finest man-made garden structure at Muncaster. As well as extending and remodelling the Castle in the early 1780's, the first Lord Muncaster carried out huge improvements to the gardens. He planted hundreds of thousands of trees, opened up many new walks through the gardens and built the grand entrance gates and laid out the half mile long terrace with its summer houses which were renovated in 1890 and 1999.
The alternating yew pillars and box hedge planted in the 19th Century provide protection from the chill winds which can blow from the high fells. This allows many plants to flourish here including some Mediterranean species which elsewhere in the UK would require a glass house in winter. There is a fine collection of magnolias, camellias, and maples, as well as hydrangeas and a large collection of unusual trees.
The terrace links to Church Wood, home to many winter flowering rhododendrons and to a colourful collection of Japanese maples which are at their best in summer.
The Sino Himalayan Gardens are a particularly fabulous part of the grounds and are a wonderful place to soak everything in in peace and tranquillity. Standing at almost sea level in the Himalayan gardens of Muncaster is startlingly similar to being 3350 metres (11,000ft) high in the Himalayan foothills. Here plants from all over the world nestle in the wild splendour of over 70 acres of gardens with the romantic backdrop of the glorious Lakeland Fells.
Location
If you are staying in one of several cottages in the lake district near the Eskdale and Wasdale area, then Muncaster Castle really couldn't be more handy - it is located in the heart of the Western Lake District and, uniquely, is in the only coastal village of the Lake District National Park, Ravenglass.
The castle is well signposted on the A595, just to the east of Ravenglass. The postcode is CA18 1RD.
Parking is free and for visitors with disability/mobility concerns, there is a car park in the heart of the estate which can be accessed via Church Lane. This is approximately 1/2 mile around the corner from the main car park (heading south).
Walking from Ravenglass to Muncaster: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Muncaster Castle along Muncaster Fell from any number of Lake District cottages in Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station and then hike out to Muncaster and have a leisurely trip back on the Ravenglass and Eskdale miniature steam railway.
Reception at the castle is open 8.30am - 6pm Monday to Friday, 9am - 5pm Saturday and Sunday and the information office number is: 01229 717 614.
Walk around St John's in the Vale
This is a circular walk of 2.5 - 3 hours. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the Lake District from which this walk is accessible. The walk starts at St John’s in the Vale Church where you can park (ignore the sign that says ‘unsuitable for cars’ – it is bad after the church). Walk past the Diocesan Youth Centre and immediately turn left and follow the trod up to the kissing gate.
The next section is a steep climb up grass to the top. There are two or three paths up but I favour the one with the steps in the grass – much easier!
Don’t miss the top. The path goes on across the saddle and there is a cluster of rocks on your left. Climb up here and you will be rewarded with a wonderful panorama of all the major peaks and also Tuffet tarn nestling in a fold of the hills behind you with Blencathra looming in the background and the central massif of Skiddaw with Bassenthwaite Lake in the far distance.
Turn round and you will see Thirlmere and this is the direction you are heading for with the Hellvelyn range on your left.
The path descends and turns right and it continues as a gentle stroll among undulating hummocks until you come to a marshy area. Keep well over to the right before attempting to cross it. Don’t use the first set of stones across but follow the path around to the left (keeping the wall on your left) until you descend to a ladder stile.
Once over, take the right hand path. Ahead is a beautiful view of the manmade reservoir, Thirlmere.
Climb over the next small stile and continue along the ridge among the clumps of heather towards the scars of Hellvelyn.
Below is the tranquil vale of St John’s with its traditional Lake District cottages and carpets of fields with grazing sheep and cows. There is a little bit of a tricky descent and then up again through a gap in the wall. Then follows a lovely descent through aromatic pine/fir trees with the forbidding Castle Crag loved by the Lake District's climbers in front of you.
The path twists and turns almost to the road but at the big oak tree on your left turn left and you will be on the path which will take you eventually along the river up St John’s in the Vale back to the church.
The path descends towards the river. After about ¾ mile you will find a warm welcome at Low Bridge End farm selling homemade cakes and soft drinks – a welcome pitstop!
Dogs on leads though – a handsome turkey roams freely. The path then meanders beside the stone wall with the massif of Blencathra and Threlkeld nestling below always in front of you.
A slight incline brings you up to the road leading to the church where you turn left back to your car. The church has been there’re at least since 1554 and was once part of an important route from Matterdale to Wanthwaite and conveniently placed for people both sides of the fell.
There is a good Lake District pub in Threlkeld, the Horse and Farrier, 5 minutes drive away.
There are several Lake District cottages from where you can enjoy fantastic Lakeland walks throughout the year, this walk is just one of them.
The next section is a steep climb up grass to the top. There are two or three paths up but I favour the one with the steps in the grass – much easier!
Don’t miss the top. The path goes on across the saddle and there is a cluster of rocks on your left. Climb up here and you will be rewarded with a wonderful panorama of all the major peaks and also Tuffet tarn nestling in a fold of the hills behind you with Blencathra looming in the background and the central massif of Skiddaw with Bassenthwaite Lake in the far distance.
Turn round and you will see Thirlmere and this is the direction you are heading for with the Hellvelyn range on your left.
The path descends and turns right and it continues as a gentle stroll among undulating hummocks until you come to a marshy area. Keep well over to the right before attempting to cross it. Don’t use the first set of stones across but follow the path around to the left (keeping the wall on your left) until you descend to a ladder stile.
Once over, take the right hand path. Ahead is a beautiful view of the manmade reservoir, Thirlmere.
Climb over the next small stile and continue along the ridge among the clumps of heather towards the scars of Hellvelyn.
Below is the tranquil vale of St John’s with its traditional Lake District cottages and carpets of fields with grazing sheep and cows. There is a little bit of a tricky descent and then up again through a gap in the wall. Then follows a lovely descent through aromatic pine/fir trees with the forbidding Castle Crag loved by the Lake District's climbers in front of you.
The path twists and turns almost to the road but at the big oak tree on your left turn left and you will be on the path which will take you eventually along the river up St John’s in the Vale back to the church.
The path descends towards the river. After about ¾ mile you will find a warm welcome at Low Bridge End farm selling homemade cakes and soft drinks – a welcome pitstop!
Dogs on leads though – a handsome turkey roams freely. The path then meanders beside the stone wall with the massif of Blencathra and Threlkeld nestling below always in front of you.
A slight incline brings you up to the road leading to the church where you turn left back to your car. The church has been there’re at least since 1554 and was once part of an important route from Matterdale to Wanthwaite and conveniently placed for people both sides of the fell.
There is a good Lake District pub in Threlkeld, the Horse and Farrier, 5 minutes drive away.
There are several Lake District cottages from where you can enjoy fantastic Lakeland walks throughout the year, this walk is just one of them.
Friday, 12 November 2010
Getting away from the crowds in the Lake District
The Lake District is, in my biased opinion, undoubtedly the most beautiful place in Britain. Soaring peaks, endless greenery, mirror-smooth lakes, wonderful wildlife, scary screes, romantic poetry, ancient history, country pubs and half a million sheep. There's also no question that lots of people agree, and many of them can be spotted hunting for parking spaces in Windermere on a Saturday afternoon throughout the year, especially in summer.
Those in the know head for the quieter, western parts of the Lakes, where the scenery often tops the better-known areas and you've every chance of having a mountain-top or lakeside picnic spot all to yourself. The curious thing is that the less-populated valleys needn't have fewer facilities, as the pub-per-person ratio remains curiously high. This, I’d like to think, tells you plenty about the locals' congenial disposition, not to mention their love of real ale and hearty local food. There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages available for everyone as well.
The other thing the western valleys have in common is better weather. The Lake District is well-known for its showers – the lakes have to come from somewhere – but the western areas have fewer heavy downpours and are very often warmer than the rest of the national park. It's not uncommon in late spring to see snow on distant fells, whilst you're shedding layers on the valley floor below.
So – have I convinced you to head over to the Duddon Valley, Ennerdale, Wasdale and Eskdale?
The Duddon Valley is in the far south-west of the county, accessible from Broughton-in-Furness on the coast or by following Wordsworth's steps from Wrynose Pass to Cockley Beck at the head of the valley. Wordsworth wrote no less than 34 sonnets about the Duddon Valley.
'Still glides the Stream, and shall for ever glide,' he said, contemplating the stately pace of the River Duddon.
Local people recall with fondness childhood summers spent jumping off Ulpha Bridge into the River Duddon, whilst their parents picnicked on the river bank. There are lots of footpaths throughout the valley, but those near the valley foot are very gentle, level and still beautiful; just right for families and people who walk for relaxation rather than exercise.
Further into the Duddon Valley, you can walk to Wallowbarrow Crag, where the river rushes through a gorge, or up to Birk's Bridge, stretched dramatically over a 20-foot chasm. Seathwaite Tarn is a great place to relax with little chance of running into fellow walkers. The views over the woods, river and fells are spectacular, and there's a good chance of spotting red squirrels and buzzards.
You may not have heard of Ennerdale, and that's because the small number of roads make it the least-visited part of the Lake District. It's our last great sanctuary for committed climbers, scramblers, riders and walkers; there's just one small village, and the road stops at Bowness Knott at the lake's edge.
Ennerdale Water is the only lake not to have a tarmaced road running along its shores, but the valley does have 30 miles of public rights of way including 14 miles of exquisite forest paths. Here, walkers, riders and mountain bike enthusiasts can park up at Bowness Knott, put their sandwiches in their backpacks, and head out into miles of wild lakes scenery.
Climbers will know of Ennerdale for one reason: Pillar Rock. The rugged north face of Pillar mountain has been a proving-ground for climbers for a hundred years, with super climbs at most grades right up to the plainly-named, 'Hard Severe'. Despite its fame, the remote location and reputation of Pillar means that it's never crowded, and you can often enjoy your battle with nature in perfect solitude.
Wasdale is a place of extremes. The valley opens gently at Nether Wasdale, with views of open farmland and forestry plantations. A mile and a half further on, the scenery changes dramatically as Wastwater, the country's deepest lake, and the high fells that surround it, come into view. Mountainsides seem to plunge straight into the lake; bare screes contrasting with the calm, steely waters. At the head of the lake is Great Gable and Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain.
Wasdale claims another record with a candidate for England's smallest church, at the hamlet of Wasdale Head. St. Olaf's is a tiny place just big enough for the small local population, set picturesquely in an old yew grove, with ancient beams said to have come from Viking ships.
The Wasdale Head Inn is the place to set off on some of the most strenuous walks in the country, up into the Scafells and beyond. This is very much the place to be if you need to get-away-from-it-all. If mobile phones and reality TV have been driving you crazy, come right here; there's very little reception for either.
Eskdale is a truly beautiful valley, with a varied terrain which suits the relaxation-seeker and committed adventurer alike. In fact, if you really want to see spectacular scenery the very easy way, hop on the steam train at the foot of the valley in Ravenglass, and let it chauffeur you through seven miles of woodland, gentle fields and river views, set against the backdrop of the highest mountains in the country.
There are lots of footpaths in the valley, many of them low level riverside walks. You can paddle in the river, cross stepping stones and picnic at leisure, with few other visitors around. The more adventurous will head up the valley, perhaps to the steep, wooded ravine to the 60-foot falls at Dalegarth Force, or take the path east of the Doctor Bridge to the extreme heights of the Roman fort at Hardknott Pass.
Eskdale's most stunning and strenous activity is the 'Woolpack round', a 16-mile walk topping the Scafells. This day-long trek is not for the fainthearted, but rewards the fit with spectacular views of all the best that the Lake District has to offer, with the highest and craggiest peaks, distant glittering lakes and green valleys heading to the sea. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district in these areas too. It’d be crazy not to try them. Just follow the link.
Now, isn't that better than fighting for parking spaces?
Those in the know head for the quieter, western parts of the Lakes, where the scenery often tops the better-known areas and you've every chance of having a mountain-top or lakeside picnic spot all to yourself. The curious thing is that the less-populated valleys needn't have fewer facilities, as the pub-per-person ratio remains curiously high. This, I’d like to think, tells you plenty about the locals' congenial disposition, not to mention their love of real ale and hearty local food. There are plenty of self catering lake district cottages available for everyone as well.
The other thing the western valleys have in common is better weather. The Lake District is well-known for its showers – the lakes have to come from somewhere – but the western areas have fewer heavy downpours and are very often warmer than the rest of the national park. It's not uncommon in late spring to see snow on distant fells, whilst you're shedding layers on the valley floor below.
So – have I convinced you to head over to the Duddon Valley, Ennerdale, Wasdale and Eskdale?
The Duddon Valley is in the far south-west of the county, accessible from Broughton-in-Furness on the coast or by following Wordsworth's steps from Wrynose Pass to Cockley Beck at the head of the valley. Wordsworth wrote no less than 34 sonnets about the Duddon Valley.
'Still glides the Stream, and shall for ever glide,' he said, contemplating the stately pace of the River Duddon.
Local people recall with fondness childhood summers spent jumping off Ulpha Bridge into the River Duddon, whilst their parents picnicked on the river bank. There are lots of footpaths throughout the valley, but those near the valley foot are very gentle, level and still beautiful; just right for families and people who walk for relaxation rather than exercise.
Further into the Duddon Valley, you can walk to Wallowbarrow Crag, where the river rushes through a gorge, or up to Birk's Bridge, stretched dramatically over a 20-foot chasm. Seathwaite Tarn is a great place to relax with little chance of running into fellow walkers. The views over the woods, river and fells are spectacular, and there's a good chance of spotting red squirrels and buzzards.
You may not have heard of Ennerdale, and that's because the small number of roads make it the least-visited part of the Lake District. It's our last great sanctuary for committed climbers, scramblers, riders and walkers; there's just one small village, and the road stops at Bowness Knott at the lake's edge.
Ennerdale Water is the only lake not to have a tarmaced road running along its shores, but the valley does have 30 miles of public rights of way including 14 miles of exquisite forest paths. Here, walkers, riders and mountain bike enthusiasts can park up at Bowness Knott, put their sandwiches in their backpacks, and head out into miles of wild lakes scenery.
Climbers will know of Ennerdale for one reason: Pillar Rock. The rugged north face of Pillar mountain has been a proving-ground for climbers for a hundred years, with super climbs at most grades right up to the plainly-named, 'Hard Severe'. Despite its fame, the remote location and reputation of Pillar means that it's never crowded, and you can often enjoy your battle with nature in perfect solitude.
Wasdale is a place of extremes. The valley opens gently at Nether Wasdale, with views of open farmland and forestry plantations. A mile and a half further on, the scenery changes dramatically as Wastwater, the country's deepest lake, and the high fells that surround it, come into view. Mountainsides seem to plunge straight into the lake; bare screes contrasting with the calm, steely waters. At the head of the lake is Great Gable and Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain.
Wasdale claims another record with a candidate for England's smallest church, at the hamlet of Wasdale Head. St. Olaf's is a tiny place just big enough for the small local population, set picturesquely in an old yew grove, with ancient beams said to have come from Viking ships.
The Wasdale Head Inn is the place to set off on some of the most strenuous walks in the country, up into the Scafells and beyond. This is very much the place to be if you need to get-away-from-it-all. If mobile phones and reality TV have been driving you crazy, come right here; there's very little reception for either.
Eskdale is a truly beautiful valley, with a varied terrain which suits the relaxation-seeker and committed adventurer alike. In fact, if you really want to see spectacular scenery the very easy way, hop on the steam train at the foot of the valley in Ravenglass, and let it chauffeur you through seven miles of woodland, gentle fields and river views, set against the backdrop of the highest mountains in the country.
There are lots of footpaths in the valley, many of them low level riverside walks. You can paddle in the river, cross stepping stones and picnic at leisure, with few other visitors around. The more adventurous will head up the valley, perhaps to the steep, wooded ravine to the 60-foot falls at Dalegarth Force, or take the path east of the Doctor Bridge to the extreme heights of the Roman fort at Hardknott Pass.
Eskdale's most stunning and strenous activity is the 'Woolpack round', a 16-mile walk topping the Scafells. This day-long trek is not for the fainthearted, but rewards the fit with spectacular views of all the best that the Lake District has to offer, with the highest and craggiest peaks, distant glittering lakes and green valleys heading to the sea. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district in these areas too. It’d be crazy not to try them. Just follow the link.
Now, isn't that better than fighting for parking spaces?
Christmas Capers in the Lake District
Santa on a steam train, a squirrel on a boat, an illuminated castle, lunch in a medieval hall and a party with Lady Gaga. The Lakes has its usual astonishing variety of Christmas entertainment, and the above is (nearly) all true!
According to Rheged, Santa has several holiday cottages in the lake district, which is just as well as he plans on spending quite a lot of time there before he returns to the North Pole to pack for the big trip.
His first appearance in Cumbria is doubtless a PR exercise to prove that he does not have a belly like a bowlful of jelly – he and many doppelgangers will be taking part in Barrow-in-Furness's annual Santa Dash and Reindeer Run on 20th November. Here, adults who register with the charity, Cancer Care, can borrow a Santa suit, and kids can borrow antlers and Rudolphian noses, before walking/running/dashing along the one-and-a-half mile route through the town.
Having proved his fitness, Santa then arrives at his Lake District cottages in Rheged by husky-drawn sleigh (I guess the reindeer need a break after the Barrow Reindeer Run) on 21st November (I'll be keeping my eyes skywards in the hope of spotting the fly-past!). He'll switch on Rheged's Christmas lights and be on standard grotto duty from November 27th – 28th.
On 4th December, Santa hops back to the west coast to switch on the Christmas lights at Grange-over-Sands – no doubt he chose this one because they have a spectacular, allegedly 100ft-tall, Christmas tree!
On 5th December, Santa will be in his grotto at Keswick's Traditional Christmas Fayre. There's street entertainment, decorations throughout the town centre and lots of market stalls all staffed by charities and local community groups.
It's a little known fact that Santa is quite keen on boats. He will be taking four cruises a day on the Keswick Launch on the three weekends before Christmas, 6th/7th, 13th/14th and 20th/21st. Children will be given presents and adults get mince pies – yum. He'll probably stay at one of his Keswick cottages while he's there!
On 7th – 9th December, Santa will be cruising with his friend, the 6ft-tall talking red squirrel, Sammy. Santa and Sammy will be handing out fab pressies to children and mulled wine and minced pies for the grown ups on Ullswater Steamers.
On 11th/12th and 18th/19th December, Santa will be indulging his little-suspected love of steam trains. He'll be hosting train trips on the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway from the coastal village of Ravenglass all the way to Boot at the top of the Eskdale valley.
Santa also loves a film, so he'll be hosting supper and film events for kids at Rheged in the week before Christmas.
• 19th Dec: Santa Supper plus Shrek 4
• 20th Dec: Santa Supper plus Toy Story 3
• 23rd Dec: Santa Supper plus A Christmas Carol
Santa will also be at his grotto in Whitehaven's The Beacon on 22nd December, with gifts for 3-12yr olds.
Muncaster Castle is one of our favourite places in this part of the world. This medieval castle-cum-stately home puts on a great show at Christmas, with elaborate Victorian decorations, illuminations and special effects in the garden, with tall tales told by staff in 19th-century costume. Or at least, we think it's costume – the castle is well known for its ghosts!
• Christmas at the Castle – weekends from November 20th until Christmas (excluding 25th/26th November)
• Victorian Christmas Tours – Sundays in December (excl. 26th) plus 27th – 30th.
• Christmas lunch plus Victorian Christmas Tour – 23rd November, 3rd December and 10th December only.
There are a number of Christmas light switch-on events in our area. Keswick's is a favourite, as it combines with the Keswick Food Fayre. There's no news yet on who's going to switch on the lights, but last year, it was Prince Charles! The event takes place on November 19th.
Cockermouth's Christmas lights switch-on takes place on 21st November. Always good fun, the event includes street entertainment and market stalls.
There's been a touch of excitement amongst teens in the Whitehaven area, as their Christmas lights are to be switched on by Kimberley Dayle. Who she? I hear you say... well, she's a Lady Gaga tribute act, returned from her US tour. She'll be doing a 15-minute set before switching on the lights, then trekking over to Whitehaven's Civic Hall for a concert. There will also be a local radio road show in the town from lunchtime. The event takes place on 21st November.
If your musical tastes are – ahem – more eclectic, you might prefer to go to Keswick's Theatre by the Lake on 5th December. They are hosting a Viennese Strauss Christmas Gala concert, with Strauss, Christmas songs and humorous seasonal readings. This sells out very quickly, so book soon!
The Theatre by the Lake is also offering 'Melody & Mirth' on 19th December, in conjunction with the local Rotary Club. Opera singers, Graeme Danby and Valerie Reid star alongside a local band.
Also not to be missed is the Theatre by the Lake's version of the childhood classic,' Tom's Midnight Garden', from 27th November to 15th January.
A couple of other Christmassy concerts that sound great include the Christmas Concert at All Saints' Church, Cockermouth, on 4th December, where you can enjoy Bach, carols and seasonal refreshments.
There's also a terrific concert planned by Ulverston Music Festivals at Eccle Rigg on 16th December, with Schumann's Liederkreis song cycle for the first half and Christmas songs in the second, with the baritone Jeremy Huw Williams.
Whitehaven Civic Centre will be hosting the annual Whitehaven Theatre Group panto, 'Snow White', from 7th – 12th December. Pantomimes are few and far between in Cumbria, so book early!
There are a number of Christmas Fairs planned:
• 19th November: Keswick Food Fayre
• 21st November: Armathwaite Hall's Christmas Fair
• 27th – 28th November: Ulverston Dickensian Fair
• 3rd December: Egremont Farmers' Market
• 4th December: Cockermouth Christmas Farmers' Market
• 5th December: Keswick Traditional Christmas Fayre
• 12th December: Rheged Christmas Food & Gift Fair
• 17th December: Egremont Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Rheged Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Ulverston Christmas Farmers' Market
If fine dining's more your thing, there are a number of upmarket eateries in the area, including Armathwaite Hall, which has delicious four-course lunches throughout December, and a serious Christmas Eve dinner with pre-dinner cocktails and pre-dinner entertainment. On Boxing Day, there's the same dinner, but with a casino afterwards!
You can combine a lovely Christmas lunch with a lake cruise on Ullswater Steamers' Spirit of Christmas cruises on December 7th and 9th. The lunch is hosted by the nearby stately home, Dalemain, in their Medieval Hall.
After all this munching, you might need a good walk. Whinlatter Forest Park is a good place to go at this time of year, partly because of the lovely Christmassy pine forests, but also because the trails are waymarked, of various lengths, and there is little risk of getting stranded in cold weather. They have trails for all levels of experience including children, an orienteering course, mountain bike trails (with bike hire), and, weather-permitting, the Go Ape! high-wire course. There's a good cafe, which usually does seasonal fare and a few days with the man in red himself (check the website for dates). You can also buy any size or shape of Christmas tree you like!
So, what'll it be? Dinner, Santa, shopping, walking, music or theatre? Go on – try them all! There are plenty of self catering Lake District cottages available across Cumbria which would make an ideal base for visiting most of these events. Just follow the link.
According to Rheged, Santa has several holiday cottages in the lake district, which is just as well as he plans on spending quite a lot of time there before he returns to the North Pole to pack for the big trip.
His first appearance in Cumbria is doubtless a PR exercise to prove that he does not have a belly like a bowlful of jelly – he and many doppelgangers will be taking part in Barrow-in-Furness's annual Santa Dash and Reindeer Run on 20th November. Here, adults who register with the charity, Cancer Care, can borrow a Santa suit, and kids can borrow antlers and Rudolphian noses, before walking/running/dashing along the one-and-a-half mile route through the town.
Having proved his fitness, Santa then arrives at his Lake District cottages in Rheged by husky-drawn sleigh (I guess the reindeer need a break after the Barrow Reindeer Run) on 21st November (I'll be keeping my eyes skywards in the hope of spotting the fly-past!). He'll switch on Rheged's Christmas lights and be on standard grotto duty from November 27th – 28th.
On 4th December, Santa hops back to the west coast to switch on the Christmas lights at Grange-over-Sands – no doubt he chose this one because they have a spectacular, allegedly 100ft-tall, Christmas tree!
On 5th December, Santa will be in his grotto at Keswick's Traditional Christmas Fayre. There's street entertainment, decorations throughout the town centre and lots of market stalls all staffed by charities and local community groups.
It's a little known fact that Santa is quite keen on boats. He will be taking four cruises a day on the Keswick Launch on the three weekends before Christmas, 6th/7th, 13th/14th and 20th/21st. Children will be given presents and adults get mince pies – yum. He'll probably stay at one of his Keswick cottages while he's there!
On 7th – 9th December, Santa will be cruising with his friend, the 6ft-tall talking red squirrel, Sammy. Santa and Sammy will be handing out fab pressies to children and mulled wine and minced pies for the grown ups on Ullswater Steamers.
On 11th/12th and 18th/19th December, Santa will be indulging his little-suspected love of steam trains. He'll be hosting train trips on the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway from the coastal village of Ravenglass all the way to Boot at the top of the Eskdale valley.
Santa also loves a film, so he'll be hosting supper and film events for kids at Rheged in the week before Christmas.
• 19th Dec: Santa Supper plus Shrek 4
• 20th Dec: Santa Supper plus Toy Story 3
• 23rd Dec: Santa Supper plus A Christmas Carol
Santa will also be at his grotto in Whitehaven's The Beacon on 22nd December, with gifts for 3-12yr olds.
Muncaster Castle is one of our favourite places in this part of the world. This medieval castle-cum-stately home puts on a great show at Christmas, with elaborate Victorian decorations, illuminations and special effects in the garden, with tall tales told by staff in 19th-century costume. Or at least, we think it's costume – the castle is well known for its ghosts!
• Christmas at the Castle – weekends from November 20th until Christmas (excluding 25th/26th November)
• Victorian Christmas Tours – Sundays in December (excl. 26th) plus 27th – 30th.
• Christmas lunch plus Victorian Christmas Tour – 23rd November, 3rd December and 10th December only.
There are a number of Christmas light switch-on events in our area. Keswick's is a favourite, as it combines with the Keswick Food Fayre. There's no news yet on who's going to switch on the lights, but last year, it was Prince Charles! The event takes place on November 19th.
Cockermouth's Christmas lights switch-on takes place on 21st November. Always good fun, the event includes street entertainment and market stalls.
There's been a touch of excitement amongst teens in the Whitehaven area, as their Christmas lights are to be switched on by Kimberley Dayle. Who she? I hear you say... well, she's a Lady Gaga tribute act, returned from her US tour. She'll be doing a 15-minute set before switching on the lights, then trekking over to Whitehaven's Civic Hall for a concert. There will also be a local radio road show in the town from lunchtime. The event takes place on 21st November.
If your musical tastes are – ahem – more eclectic, you might prefer to go to Keswick's Theatre by the Lake on 5th December. They are hosting a Viennese Strauss Christmas Gala concert, with Strauss, Christmas songs and humorous seasonal readings. This sells out very quickly, so book soon!
The Theatre by the Lake is also offering 'Melody & Mirth' on 19th December, in conjunction with the local Rotary Club. Opera singers, Graeme Danby and Valerie Reid star alongside a local band.
Also not to be missed is the Theatre by the Lake's version of the childhood classic,' Tom's Midnight Garden', from 27th November to 15th January.
A couple of other Christmassy concerts that sound great include the Christmas Concert at All Saints' Church, Cockermouth, on 4th December, where you can enjoy Bach, carols and seasonal refreshments.
There's also a terrific concert planned by Ulverston Music Festivals at Eccle Rigg on 16th December, with Schumann's Liederkreis song cycle for the first half and Christmas songs in the second, with the baritone Jeremy Huw Williams.
Whitehaven Civic Centre will be hosting the annual Whitehaven Theatre Group panto, 'Snow White', from 7th – 12th December. Pantomimes are few and far between in Cumbria, so book early!
There are a number of Christmas Fairs planned:
• 19th November: Keswick Food Fayre
• 21st November: Armathwaite Hall's Christmas Fair
• 27th – 28th November: Ulverston Dickensian Fair
• 3rd December: Egremont Farmers' Market
• 4th December: Cockermouth Christmas Farmers' Market
• 5th December: Keswick Traditional Christmas Fayre
• 12th December: Rheged Christmas Food & Gift Fair
• 17th December: Egremont Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Rheged Christmas Farmers' Market
• 19th December: Ulverston Christmas Farmers' Market
If fine dining's more your thing, there are a number of upmarket eateries in the area, including Armathwaite Hall, which has delicious four-course lunches throughout December, and a serious Christmas Eve dinner with pre-dinner cocktails and pre-dinner entertainment. On Boxing Day, there's the same dinner, but with a casino afterwards!
You can combine a lovely Christmas lunch with a lake cruise on Ullswater Steamers' Spirit of Christmas cruises on December 7th and 9th. The lunch is hosted by the nearby stately home, Dalemain, in their Medieval Hall.
After all this munching, you might need a good walk. Whinlatter Forest Park is a good place to go at this time of year, partly because of the lovely Christmassy pine forests, but also because the trails are waymarked, of various lengths, and there is little risk of getting stranded in cold weather. They have trails for all levels of experience including children, an orienteering course, mountain bike trails (with bike hire), and, weather-permitting, the Go Ape! high-wire course. There's a good cafe, which usually does seasonal fare and a few days with the man in red himself (check the website for dates). You can also buy any size or shape of Christmas tree you like!
So, what'll it be? Dinner, Santa, shopping, walking, music or theatre? Go on – try them all! There are plenty of self catering Lake District cottages available across Cumbria which would make an ideal base for visiting most of these events. Just follow the link.
Wednesday, 10 November 2010
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Steam Railway
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Steam Railway (or La’al Ratty) is the Lake District’s oldest, longest miniature steam railway and undoubtably one of the most scenic railway journeys in Britain. If you are staying in self catering lake district cottages (especially in Eskdale and Wasdale), this is an unmissable day out for all the family.
The La’al Ratty runs for seven miles from the Dalegarth Visitor Centre at Boot in the heart of Eskdale out to the delightful coastal village of Ravenglass, passing through two glorious valleys at the feet of England’s highest mountains.
You can start your journey either inland at Dalegarth or out at Ravenglass on the coast. If you are coming from one of our holiday cottages in the Wasdale, Ravenglass or Gosforth areas (or even further afield) then taking the train from Ravenglass is a great way to travel up into Eskdale.
If you are staying in a cottage in Eskdale, then it’s a brilliant day trip to take the train out to the coast from one of the several stations in the valley, take a stroll along the beach and have fish and chips and a drink at the Ratty Arms and then take the train back up into the valley later in the day.
If you are taking the La’al Ratty from Eskdale out to the coast, then you can board the train at any of the stations along the line, but the main starting and stopping point is at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Boot. Here there is a play area for the children and you can watch the trains turning on the spinning wheel between each journey, have a meal or grab a snack and an ice cream.
The trip takes in the very best of this stunning part of the Lake District. Dalegarth Station is in a stunning location, flanked on all sides by the great peaks of the Lake District, with Scafell to the north and Stanley Ghyll and Birker Force to the south. From here, you travel through the open valley until you enter Beckfoot wood. After you leave the wood, the railway runs on a ledge above the valley road for a while until coming to Gilbert's cutting, undoubtedly one of the most photographic points on the line.
Here the scene changes, as the line hugs the northern side of valley, providing a break between the ruggedness of the bracken clad hillside and the softer, farmland below. The local Herdwick sheep are abound, deer are frequently seen in the woods and buzzards circle in the sky.
Before coming into Eskdale Green Station, you descend the steepest section of the line known as Hollinghow Bank and then from here, the line falls some 20 feet to the valley of the River Esk and the skyline is dominated from now by craggy Harter Fell which stands some 2160 feet above sea level.
Miterdale is a haven for red squirrels and far away from roads, cars and other signs of modern life. Views of craggy Muncaster Fell dominate, although all should look out for our unique boat-type shelter at Miteside halt. Next is Rock point, probably the most spectacular point of all, where the line swings around a rugged promontory high above the river affording great views of the Scafell range, particularly in winter.
At the end of your journey, you come into Ravenglass across tidal Barrow Marsh, home to many birds, including oyster catchers and ringed plovers. At Ravenglass, you can recover at Jan’s café and enjoy the home baking or you can pop to the Ratty Arms next door to the station and enjoy a pint of local ale.
There are lots of different options that you can include with a day on the ‘Ratty’:
Take a walk up to Muncaster Castle from Ravenglass: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Ravenglass along Muncaster Fell from Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station in Eskdale Green and then hike out to Ravenglass and have a leisurely trip back on the train.
You can also hire Mountain bikes at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Eskdale, which you can explore three specifically devised routes in the Eskdale valley by bike.
Budgie Bike Hire offer Trek 4300 Mountain Bikes in three sizes - small 16" frame, medium 18" frame and large 19". Ideal for Eskdale's rugged terrain and suitable for all ages over and above a decent sized 10-year old.
Full day hire costs £14 and half-day hire is charged at £8. The bikes are available whenever trains are running. It is recommended that availability and prices are checked before travelling as at certain times it is not unusual for all the bikes to be in use. Contact the Scafell Gift Shop on 019467 23226 for availability. The phone is manned whenever trains are running, but out of normal trading hours a message can be left on 01229 717171 (24-hour answer-phone service).
There is also a children’s play area and a café at Dalegarth, which serves everything from hot and cold drinks, sandwiches and cakes made on the premises, to full meals made to order. The café is open whenever trains are running...
Fares Guide 2010.
• Adult unlimited travel for the day – with free line guide - £11.20
• Child (aged 5-15 inclusive) - unlimited travel for the day – £5.60
• Child (under 5 free) - Free scratch card game given
• Adult single - £6.60
• Child single (aged 5-15 inclusive) - £3.30
• Family ticket - unlimited travel for the day – 2-adults, 2 children - £29.00
• Dogs - £1.50 per journey
• Cycles - £3.50 per journey (Cycles must be pre-booked - 01229 717171)
Please note that we aim to keep prices up to date, but if you would like to double check on prices, please phone 01229 717171 and ask to speak to Ravenglass Ticket Office.
Special Events
It is worth checking to see if your stay in the Lake District coincides with a special event being held on the ‘Ratty’. The Santa special, The Ghostly Hallowe’en rides and the Thomas the Tank Engine and Postman Pat themed days are all great for adults and children alike (prebooking is recommended for these events).
A bit of History
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway opened on May 24th 1875, its purpose being to ferry iron ore from workings near Boot to the coast at Ravenglass. On November 20th 1876 the first passengers were carried. Built to a gauge of 3 feet (910mm), problems soon arose relating to the iron ore and the line was declared bankrupt as early as 1877.
The line finally closed in 1913. Unused for two years, in 1915 the miniature railway engineer WJ Bassett-Lowke and his friend R Proctor-Mitchell, (representing Narrow Gauge Railways Ltd) acquired the line as a base for testing their little locomotives under fairly harsh operating conditions. By 1916 the re-gauged track (15"/381mm) ran as far as Irton Road, while during the following year the miniature trains were running the full length of the line.
Quarrying recommenced on the line near Beckfoot and granite blocks were transported to Murthwaite, where they were crushed for use mainly as road stone and railway ballast. By 1946 ownership had transferred to the Keswick Granite Company, who decided in 1953 to cease quarrying operations. With the exception of the war years passenger traffic continued throughout.
However, in 1958 and again in 1959 the line and fittings were offered for sale but, without any serious potential purchaser, it was announced that the 1960 season would be the last. The Railway was to be sold by auction in September. The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway Preservation Society was formed by enthusiasts but hopes were not high. Fortunately, two interested parties, (Colin Gilbert a midlands stockbroker and Sir Wavell Wakefield a local landowner) stepped in on the day of the auction with the balance of the purchase price.
In 1968 the railway moved on, becoming an integral part of the Wakefield family business in the Lake District. Much work had already been done to catch up with the backlog of maintenance, new coaches had been built and the Preservation Society had funded the building of a new locomotive, the River Mite. Further major works continued, Ravenglass station was re-modelled and a further locomotive, Northern Rock was built in the company's workshops, entering service in 1976.
With this great history at your finger tips why not stay in holiday cottages in the Lake District? Especially in the Eskdale/Ravenglass area. Just follow the link.
The La’al Ratty runs for seven miles from the Dalegarth Visitor Centre at Boot in the heart of Eskdale out to the delightful coastal village of Ravenglass, passing through two glorious valleys at the feet of England’s highest mountains.
You can start your journey either inland at Dalegarth or out at Ravenglass on the coast. If you are coming from one of our holiday cottages in the Wasdale, Ravenglass or Gosforth areas (or even further afield) then taking the train from Ravenglass is a great way to travel up into Eskdale.
If you are staying in a cottage in Eskdale, then it’s a brilliant day trip to take the train out to the coast from one of the several stations in the valley, take a stroll along the beach and have fish and chips and a drink at the Ratty Arms and then take the train back up into the valley later in the day.
If you are taking the La’al Ratty from Eskdale out to the coast, then you can board the train at any of the stations along the line, but the main starting and stopping point is at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Boot. Here there is a play area for the children and you can watch the trains turning on the spinning wheel between each journey, have a meal or grab a snack and an ice cream.
The trip takes in the very best of this stunning part of the Lake District. Dalegarth Station is in a stunning location, flanked on all sides by the great peaks of the Lake District, with Scafell to the north and Stanley Ghyll and Birker Force to the south. From here, you travel through the open valley until you enter Beckfoot wood. After you leave the wood, the railway runs on a ledge above the valley road for a while until coming to Gilbert's cutting, undoubtedly one of the most photographic points on the line.
Here the scene changes, as the line hugs the northern side of valley, providing a break between the ruggedness of the bracken clad hillside and the softer, farmland below. The local Herdwick sheep are abound, deer are frequently seen in the woods and buzzards circle in the sky.
Before coming into Eskdale Green Station, you descend the steepest section of the line known as Hollinghow Bank and then from here, the line falls some 20 feet to the valley of the River Esk and the skyline is dominated from now by craggy Harter Fell which stands some 2160 feet above sea level.
Miterdale is a haven for red squirrels and far away from roads, cars and other signs of modern life. Views of craggy Muncaster Fell dominate, although all should look out for our unique boat-type shelter at Miteside halt. Next is Rock point, probably the most spectacular point of all, where the line swings around a rugged promontory high above the river affording great views of the Scafell range, particularly in winter.
At the end of your journey, you come into Ravenglass across tidal Barrow Marsh, home to many birds, including oyster catchers and ringed plovers. At Ravenglass, you can recover at Jan’s café and enjoy the home baking or you can pop to the Ratty Arms next door to the station and enjoy a pint of local ale.
There are lots of different options that you can include with a day on the ‘Ratty’:
Take a walk up to Muncaster Castle from Ravenglass: There are two routes from the train station either via the main road or via the Eskdale Cycle Trail through the Decoy Wood. This will take you past the Roman Bath House and through delightful scenery.
It is also a fabulous walk out to Ravenglass along Muncaster Fell from Eskdale Green – you could leave your car at the Ratty station in Eskdale Green and then hike out to Ravenglass and have a leisurely trip back on the train.
You can also hire Mountain bikes at Dalegarth Visitor Centre in Eskdale, which you can explore three specifically devised routes in the Eskdale valley by bike.
Budgie Bike Hire offer Trek 4300 Mountain Bikes in three sizes - small 16" frame, medium 18" frame and large 19". Ideal for Eskdale's rugged terrain and suitable for all ages over and above a decent sized 10-year old.
Full day hire costs £14 and half-day hire is charged at £8. The bikes are available whenever trains are running. It is recommended that availability and prices are checked before travelling as at certain times it is not unusual for all the bikes to be in use. Contact the Scafell Gift Shop on 019467 23226 for availability. The phone is manned whenever trains are running, but out of normal trading hours a message can be left on 01229 717171 (24-hour answer-phone service).
There is also a children’s play area and a café at Dalegarth, which serves everything from hot and cold drinks, sandwiches and cakes made on the premises, to full meals made to order. The café is open whenever trains are running...
Fares Guide 2010.
• Adult unlimited travel for the day – with free line guide - £11.20
• Child (aged 5-15 inclusive) - unlimited travel for the day – £5.60
• Child (under 5 free) - Free scratch card game given
• Adult single - £6.60
• Child single (aged 5-15 inclusive) - £3.30
• Family ticket - unlimited travel for the day – 2-adults, 2 children - £29.00
• Dogs - £1.50 per journey
• Cycles - £3.50 per journey (Cycles must be pre-booked - 01229 717171)
Please note that we aim to keep prices up to date, but if you would like to double check on prices, please phone 01229 717171 and ask to speak to Ravenglass Ticket Office.
Special Events
It is worth checking to see if your stay in the Lake District coincides with a special event being held on the ‘Ratty’. The Santa special, The Ghostly Hallowe’en rides and the Thomas the Tank Engine and Postman Pat themed days are all great for adults and children alike (prebooking is recommended for these events).
A bit of History
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway opened on May 24th 1875, its purpose being to ferry iron ore from workings near Boot to the coast at Ravenglass. On November 20th 1876 the first passengers were carried. Built to a gauge of 3 feet (910mm), problems soon arose relating to the iron ore and the line was declared bankrupt as early as 1877.
The line finally closed in 1913. Unused for two years, in 1915 the miniature railway engineer WJ Bassett-Lowke and his friend R Proctor-Mitchell, (representing Narrow Gauge Railways Ltd) acquired the line as a base for testing their little locomotives under fairly harsh operating conditions. By 1916 the re-gauged track (15"/381mm) ran as far as Irton Road, while during the following year the miniature trains were running the full length of the line.
Quarrying recommenced on the line near Beckfoot and granite blocks were transported to Murthwaite, where they were crushed for use mainly as road stone and railway ballast. By 1946 ownership had transferred to the Keswick Granite Company, who decided in 1953 to cease quarrying operations. With the exception of the war years passenger traffic continued throughout.
However, in 1958 and again in 1959 the line and fittings were offered for sale but, without any serious potential purchaser, it was announced that the 1960 season would be the last. The Railway was to be sold by auction in September. The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway Preservation Society was formed by enthusiasts but hopes were not high. Fortunately, two interested parties, (Colin Gilbert a midlands stockbroker and Sir Wavell Wakefield a local landowner) stepped in on the day of the auction with the balance of the purchase price.
In 1968 the railway moved on, becoming an integral part of the Wakefield family business in the Lake District. Much work had already been done to catch up with the backlog of maintenance, new coaches had been built and the Preservation Society had funded the building of a new locomotive, the River Mite. Further major works continued, Ravenglass station was re-modelled and a further locomotive, Northern Rock was built in the company's workshops, entering service in 1976.
With this great history at your finger tips why not stay in holiday cottages in the Lake District? Especially in the Eskdale/Ravenglass area. Just follow the link.
Saturday, 6 November 2010
Walk around Loweswater
This is a spectacular walk with mountain views, grassy tracks, coniferous and deciduous woodlands, a lake and a pub. There are plenty of holiday cottages in the lake district from which this walk is easily accessible.
Park by the road on the brow of the hill at Fangs Brow which is just over a mile from Loweswater Lake by road, or if you’re coming from Lamplugh, it’s about 1½ miles from Lamplugh church. The Google coordinates for the parking are: 54.590708, -3.386021 and to make doubly sure, it’s just a few hundred yards from a farm (before the farm if you’re coming from Lamplugh, after the farm if you’re coming from Loweswater).
By the road, you will see a gate with a sign which says “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 2 miles”. Follow the track.
t is a circular walk and you will pass a ladder stile on your left which is the way by which you will return. Continue straight on though (following the sign which says “Loweswater via High Nook”). As you are following the track you can see the Isle of Man to your right, and behind you are the hills of Scotland in the far distance.
Go through a gate and before you get to the second gate you will catch your first glimpse of Loweswater with Crummock Water behind.
The path follows the wall as it snakes up the hill to the next ladder stile. Go over it but be careful here and follow the blue arrow which leads you left down towards the lake. Do not go straight on and up.
You are now on a wonderful terrace walk with fantastic views and seats to reflect on the beauty of the scenery. As the track winds away from the lake you will cross over a small stream towards the fir plantation.
Very soon afterwards look for a small path leading left into the fir trees. Go through the kissing gate and down the fairly steep path through the trees down to Loweswater (ignoring paths to the left and right at the two crossroads).
At the lake you will meet the main path and you can either turn left to continue the circular walk or turn right which leads you to the Kirkstile Inn about a mile away. It is also possible to hire a rowing boat at the farm which is 100 yards to your right.
If you choose the pub, you will have to retrace your steps to this point but it is well worth a visit – it has won several ‘pub of the year’ awards.
So, to go to the pub, follow the path round the top of the lake leading you alongside fields until you come to a small bridge leading to a small car park.
Follow the tarmac road up to the left until you come to the main road. Turn right and follow the brown signs to the Kirkstile Inn which is just past the church.
Have a drink or a meal and a bit of a rest, and then retrace your steps – turning left out of the pub, left along the road and then second left along a tarmac road which is signed “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 0.8 miles”. Remember to turn right, through the National Trust carpark and over the cattlegrid.
Carry along the path until you rejoin where you left off by the rowing boats if they’re out. Carry on, following the path by the lake.
You will come to a split in the path which is by a bothy. Be sure to have a swing on the homemade swing which is on the small beach here. You can choose whether to go left or right at the split, as the two paths marry up again further along. The path to your right follows the lake through the woods; the one on your left is straighter and shorter but equally as beautiful. The woods are fantastic at any time of year. When we went yesterday we saw a red deer and the evening light was just lovely. In spring time it is a wonderland of bluebells, wood anemones, sorrel and violets.
The track gradually ascends until you leave the lake behind.
Keep on going through a gate and bear right past the black and white farmhouse. 40 yards past the farm there is a stile on your left and a sign pointing to Fangs Brow. Go over the stile and follow the fence on your left through the field and to another stile. Go over this stile and turn immediately right, following the hedge on your right this time.
Go through the next gate and up the rough trod, following the ancient hedge line.
Through the next gate, the trail curves up and left slightly to the next gate. Pause to have a last look at the lake behind you. Then go through the gate and follow the lane along the left hand wall. Go up the tarmac road, keeping the house on your right.
You will see another house and instead of going downhill to it, turn left up the ancient bridleway (following the small footpath sign here). Keep following the path up to the ladder stile mentioned at the start of the walk.
Once over the stile, turn right and you’re back at the car. There are several self catering lake district cottages which would make an ideal base from which to start this fantastic walk. Just follow the link.
Park by the road on the brow of the hill at Fangs Brow which is just over a mile from Loweswater Lake by road, or if you’re coming from Lamplugh, it’s about 1½ miles from Lamplugh church. The Google coordinates for the parking are: 54.590708, -3.386021 and to make doubly sure, it’s just a few hundred yards from a farm (before the farm if you’re coming from Lamplugh, after the farm if you’re coming from Loweswater).
By the road, you will see a gate with a sign which says “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 2 miles”. Follow the track.
t is a circular walk and you will pass a ladder stile on your left which is the way by which you will return. Continue straight on though (following the sign which says “Loweswater via High Nook”). As you are following the track you can see the Isle of Man to your right, and behind you are the hills of Scotland in the far distance.
Go through a gate and before you get to the second gate you will catch your first glimpse of Loweswater with Crummock Water behind.
The path follows the wall as it snakes up the hill to the next ladder stile. Go over it but be careful here and follow the blue arrow which leads you left down towards the lake. Do not go straight on and up.
You are now on a wonderful terrace walk with fantastic views and seats to reflect on the beauty of the scenery. As the track winds away from the lake you will cross over a small stream towards the fir plantation.
Very soon afterwards look for a small path leading left into the fir trees. Go through the kissing gate and down the fairly steep path through the trees down to Loweswater (ignoring paths to the left and right at the two crossroads).
At the lake you will meet the main path and you can either turn left to continue the circular walk or turn right which leads you to the Kirkstile Inn about a mile away. It is also possible to hire a rowing boat at the farm which is 100 yards to your right.
If you choose the pub, you will have to retrace your steps to this point but it is well worth a visit – it has won several ‘pub of the year’ awards.
So, to go to the pub, follow the path round the top of the lake leading you alongside fields until you come to a small bridge leading to a small car park.
Follow the tarmac road up to the left until you come to the main road. Turn right and follow the brown signs to the Kirkstile Inn which is just past the church.
Have a drink or a meal and a bit of a rest, and then retrace your steps – turning left out of the pub, left along the road and then second left along a tarmac road which is signed “Public Bridleway, Loweswater 0.8 miles”. Remember to turn right, through the National Trust carpark and over the cattlegrid.
Carry along the path until you rejoin where you left off by the rowing boats if they’re out. Carry on, following the path by the lake.
You will come to a split in the path which is by a bothy. Be sure to have a swing on the homemade swing which is on the small beach here. You can choose whether to go left or right at the split, as the two paths marry up again further along. The path to your right follows the lake through the woods; the one on your left is straighter and shorter but equally as beautiful. The woods are fantastic at any time of year. When we went yesterday we saw a red deer and the evening light was just lovely. In spring time it is a wonderland of bluebells, wood anemones, sorrel and violets.
The track gradually ascends until you leave the lake behind.
Keep on going through a gate and bear right past the black and white farmhouse. 40 yards past the farm there is a stile on your left and a sign pointing to Fangs Brow. Go over the stile and follow the fence on your left through the field and to another stile. Go over this stile and turn immediately right, following the hedge on your right this time.
Go through the next gate and up the rough trod, following the ancient hedge line.
Through the next gate, the trail curves up and left slightly to the next gate. Pause to have a last look at the lake behind you. Then go through the gate and follow the lane along the left hand wall. Go up the tarmac road, keeping the house on your right.
You will see another house and instead of going downhill to it, turn left up the ancient bridleway (following the small footpath sign here). Keep following the path up to the ladder stile mentioned at the start of the walk.
Once over the stile, turn right and you’re back at the car. There are several self catering lake district cottages which would make an ideal base from which to start this fantastic walk. Just follow the link.
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